Advertisement
Calgary in the fall. AJ Watt/Getty Images
Calgary has become an annual pilgrimage. At first, it was just a gateway – a place to fuel up before heading into the Rockies to nearby Banff and Jasper National Parks. Then came a summer trip for the Calgary Stampede, a massive summer party-meets-rodeo in the heart of the city that made me fall in love with Calgary proper. Most recently, I returned with my wife, two of our best friends and their young daughter – who I met for the first time on that visit (it was extra special) – and the region once again proved why it’s often dubbed Canada’s friendliest.
Calgary always mixes prairie charm and mountain drama. But, come fall, it adds a burst of golden foliage and crisp alpine air that makes every craft pint, hike and city stroll feel extra-special.
Advertisement
· When to arrive: Land Thursday evening/early Friday so you can embark on a full Friday excursion to nearby Banff and have plenty of time to explore all that awaits in Calgary proper, too.
· How to get from the airport: Calgary International Airport is a 20-minute ride from downtown. Rideshares and taxis are plentiful; rent a car if you plan to explore Banff or spots in between like Kananaskis Mountain Lodge.
· Getting around town: Within the city, the CTrain light rail and rideshares cover most sights, but a car can give total flexibility for mountain day trips.
· Where to stay: The Dorian Autograph Collection blends literary flair and modern luxury in the heart of downtown. For historic elegance, the Fairmont Palliser offers grand public spaces and timeless rooms.
· What to pack: Layer up. Autumn highs can swing from sunny 60s °F to brisk 30s. Bring a light down jacket, sturdy shoes for park and urban trails, and a selection of smart-casual attire for Calgary’s thriving restaurant scene.
Day 1
Morning
A stone’s throw from The Dorian hotel, Monogram Coffee has an outpost within Fifth Avenue Place. It’s a Calgary go-to for top-tier, freshly roasted beans sought the world over. Before pointing the rental car west, snag a pour-over coffee, breakfast sandwich and pastries for the road. The 90-minute drive into Banff National Park is a postcard come to life – watch for mist curling off the Bow River as the Rockies rise ahead.
Advertisement
How to spend the day
Kick things off with the Open Top Touring Legendary Banff Tour. The 1930s-style coach, complete with open roof and costumed guide, rolls to scenic stops like Surprise Corner and Tunnel Mountain while dishing up tales of Marilyn Monroe’s Banff filming days and the town’s earliest mountaineers.
Follow with a late brunch at Brazen, inside the historic Mount Royal Hotel. Its nationally infused menu might feature arctic char in a fennel dashi broth, Alberta beef smash burgers or Canadian pork ribs on a given day.
In the afternoon, ride the Banff Gondola to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. The boardwalk to Sanson’s Peak delivers 360-degree views of six mountain ranges glowing with fall color. Pause at the Above Banff interpretive center to learn how this became Canada’s first national park, and yes, take all the selfies possible as mountains loom in every direction.
Post-gondola and en route to Calgary proper, pit-stop at Kananaskis Mountain Lodge. The site of a recent G7 summit, it has a vast Nordic spa and restaurants spanning the pub to steakhouse spectrum.
Dinner
Back in the city of Calgary, book a table at Major Tom, a sleek 40th-floor dining room where floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the city skyline and distant Rockies. Alberta beef takes center stage – order the steak frites anchored by an angus flat iron and pair it with stracciatella-dashed potato doughnuts.
After dark
Downtown, sip a custom smoked Old Fashioned at One18 Empire inside the Calgary Marriott. With thousands of possible combinations of bitters, syrups and smoke levels, you can design a nightcap as bold or subtle as you’re craving.
Day 2
Morning
Ease into Saturday with a stroll and snack at the Calgary Farmers’ Market South. This 55,000-square-foot hall hums with more than 75 vendors. Sample local honey (Alberta is Canada’s top producer), bison jerky or piping-hot pastries while browsing goods from local artisans.
How to spend the day
Head toward the Bow River and walk across the pedestrian bridge to Prince’s Island Park. Autumn turns the cottonwoods an electric yellow, and the Chevron Learning Pathway for kids explains how the park’s constructed wetland filters stormwater while attracting wildlife.
For lunch, settle into River Café, accessible only on foot within the park and consistently ranked among Canada’s best restaurants. Seasonal plates might include a fish and game-inspired charcuterie board or Alberta hemp heart salad with an apricot vinaigrette.
Afterward, ride the elevator within Calgary Tower for 360-degree city views and a heart-pounding step onto the glass floor. Late afternoon calls for a pre-dinner cocktail at The Living Room – the birthplace of the Calgary and Canada-famous, espresso-loaded Shaft drink. It’s nestled on lively 17th Avenue and happy hour runs until 5:30 pm.
Dinner
Celebrate classic steakhouse tradition with an early feast at Caesar’s Steakhouse. This local institution has served sizzling Alberta beef since 1972; a steak – sizzled atop a grill viewable from every nook of the dining room – and tableside Caesar salad are musts.
After dark
Check the Calgary Flames schedule – few sports experiences match the roar inside the Saddledome on a cool fall night. If hockey’s out, join the spine-tingling Ghost Tour at Heritage Park. Amid lantern lights, you’ll hear tales of haunted railcars and mysterious apparitions as you roam Calgary’s historic streets after dark.
Day 3
Morning
Start with a hearty breakfast at retro-cool Galaxie Diner, beloved for its all-day breakfast, banana-infused French toast and a mammoth breakfast burrito accompanied by bottomless hash browns.
How to spend the day
Pick up a pedal bike, e-bike or e-scooter from Toonie Tours and hit the Bow River Pathway. Calgary boasts more than 1,000 km (621 miles) of connected trails – the longest urban network in North America. From downtown, cross the striking red Peace Bridge and cruise west toward Edworthy Park for river views framed by fiery autumn leaves. Loop back through the cafe-lined Kensington neighborhood before following the Elbow River south to Eau Claire Park for a final panorama of the skyline and Saddledome.
Reward your ride with a late lunch or early dinner at the Fairmont Palliser’s Hawthorn Dining Room, where prairie grains, local produce and a prized 40-ounce rib eye chop share the spotlight in elegant surroundings. Raise a final glass to a city that keeps giving reasons to return.
Advertisement
