The ultimate long weekend in Marseille

Marseille is like no other city in France, or the world for that matter. A gateway between Europe and Africa, the bustling port brims with a rich diversity formed from 2600 years of migration. With its urban grit, and breathtaking nature, Marseille offers a two-for-one vacation that satisfies city-lovers and beach-goers.

I came eight years ago to research Marseille for an article. Seduced by its striking contrasts, I moved here the following year (careful, you just might get hooked, too).

Read on for my handpicked recommendations and helpful tips for a long weekend in Marseille.

When to arrive: Come on a Thursday to make the most of the long weekend

How to get from the airport: The shuttle bus (navette) is the fastest (30 min) and cheapest (10€) option. It goes directly to the train station in the city center.

Getting around town: Walking is the best way to explore the city. Take public transport to cover more ground. The city’s electric bikes (Le Velo) are a great way to get to the beach. From April to September, ferry boats run to Marseille’s southern and northern tip, Les Goudes and L’Estaque.

Where to stay: Marseille lodging is as diverse as the city. The seaside rooms at the boutique hotel Bords de Mer hug the Mediterranean. The affordable B&B, Pension Edelweiss, feels like you’re sleeping at your friends’ vintage apartment. Hôtel la Résidence Vieux-Port boasts gorgeous views of the Vieux-Port.

What to pack: Bring casual clothes and comfortable shoes for walking. A swimsuit and sunscreen are musts in the summer.

Friday

Morning: My favorite cafe is La Caravelle at the Vieux-Port. Whether outside on the sliver of the balcony or inside surrounded by vintage maps and boats, the former sailor bar is a charming spot for a coffee, croissant and jus d’orange pressée (fresh-squeezed OJ.) FYI, digital nomads. I also like to work here.

The cafe’s views of Notre Dame de la Garde will entice you to visit Marseille’s highest point. Bus or hike to get to the “Bonne Mère”, aka the “Good Mother”, the basilica’s nickname due to its golden virgin and child statue. Marvel at the glittering mosaics and wooden boats inside. Outside, the 360° view gives you a sense of the city’s sprawl.

How to spend the day: Head to Noailles, the multicultural neighborhood that is known as the “belly of Marseille.” Its array of food stalls illustrate how immigrants have heavily influenced local cuisine. I like to eat Tunisian leblebi at Chez Yassine. Shop for heritage goods at France’s oldest hardware store Maison Empereur, Mediterranean foodstuffs at Épicerie Idéal, or North African home goods at Jiji la Palme d’Or.

Dinner: Enjoy a meat-centric, locavore dinner at Bouillon. Chef Auregan Dean is part of the new wave of female chefs feeding the city’s food scene. Mathieu Zurcher’s natural wines are spotlighted at their next-door wine bar, Carnage. I’m lucky to live around the corner.

After dark: Head to the nearby graffiti-splashed Cours Julien for an alfresco drink under the trees. Music buffs should check out the lineup of concerts and DJs at Espace Julien and Makeda.

Saturday

Morning: Outdoor markets are a quintessential part of French life. Pick up cheese, fruit, and charcuterie for a picnic or local specialities like panisses (chick-pea fritters) and fried sardines at the Marché des Reformés. I’m also a fan of the adjacent Marché des Argonautes, an indoor gourmet market with a stunning stained-glass ceiling. Keep heading east to the ornate Palais Longchamp, home to the under-the-radar Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle de Marseille.

How to spend the day: The Calanques National Park is made up of limestone cliffs that spill into the Mediterranean. You can either hike through the extraordinary landscapes (the 3hr-roundtrip climb to Croix Marseilleveyre serves up epic panoramas) or take a boat through the turquoise coves. Pack a picnic or lunch on fresh fish at Chez Paul in the fishing village of Les Goudes.

Dinner: To wind down in Les Goudes, enjoy a “sunset apéro”, southern French happy hour, at 20,000 Lieus Sous la Biére (the name is a play on words of the famous Jules Verne book.) Then take a taxi to the familial Chez Zé. Alongside locals, dine on Marseille specialties like wood-fired pizza and supions à l’ail (garlic squid) on the tree-lined terrace. Be sure to bring cash.

After dark: Marseille loves its soirées, particularly in the summer. Borderline hosts al fresco parties and festive cruises. The Friche la Belle de Mai cultural center has a lineup of DJs, films, dance and more all year-round.

Sunday

Morning: Coffee first arrived in France via Marseille’s port in 1664. Nowadays, a recent batch of local roasters are making the city a coffee capital. One of the first, Deep, is adored by global coffee connoisseurs. I like to pair my latte with people-watching on the patio.

How to spend the day: Since many shops are closed on Sunday, this is the perfect day for sightseeing. Start at Fort St-Jean, a 17th-century citadel with turreted towers and allegorical gardens. Check out the video exhibit under the archways that recounts the city’s history.

Take the footbridge to the Musée des Civilisations d’Europe et de la Méditerranée, which hosts rotating shows inspired by both sides of the Mediterranean. The building itself is a work of art, a futuristic concrete cage inspired by ancient Mesopotamian architecture. It's free to visit the rooftop and exterior walkways. If you have time before your departure, a visit to La Cité Radieuse is worth the cab fare. Le Corbusier’s Brutalist vision of mixed-use housing is still in use. Plus, the tourist office offers guided tours in English.

Bid adieu to the city before boarding your train or plane. Already dreaming of a return trip to Marseille? This weekend's itinerary was just a taste. Check out more things to see and do in Marseille.