The ultimate weekend in Indianapolis

Chicago might get all the glory as the unofficial capital of the Midwest, but there’s a little something special brewing in its oft-overlooked neighbor to the east: Indy. Indiana’s largest city, Indianapolis is the queen of sporting events. The NCAA Final Four, Olympic Swim Trials, a certain record-breaking tour stop – it’s all here.

And while the city truly sparkles when the red carpet is rolled out for big occasions, a visit at any time is worthwhile as there’s plenty of creativity brewing in the Corn Belt all year long. 

I love exploring my home region of the Midwest and doing my best to dispel the overdone “flyover country” myth. (I promise, people are doing amazing, unexpected, dynamic things in the Heartland.) And despite traversing the globe, something keeps drawing me back to the quiet cool of Indianapolis.

Maybe it’s the proximity to family or the slew of unheralded eateries plating elevated dishes packed with regional flair. Maybe it’s the culturally diverse and exciting mix of neighborhoods packed with exciting things to see and do. Whatever the reasons, see the best the city has to offer with this ultimate weekend guide to Indianapolis.

• When to arrive: I always prefer to arrive on Thursday afternoon or evening to squeeze the most out of a weekend away. That way, you're refreshed and ready to go on Friday morning and can pack more into the weekend.

• How to get from the airport: Both Uber and Lyft are easy options to the Circle City from Indianapolis International Airport (IND). In my experience, Ubers are slightly more plentiful, and you can expect to spend $30-$50 on a ride from the airport to the city. It’s only 15-30 minutes away from downtown, depending on traffic. 

• Getting around town: The urban core is fairly walkable, but since some major draws are on the edges of the city, renting a car is your best bet. Indy is working to expand its BRT (Bus Rapid Transit), but it’s not quite traveler-friendly yet. 

• Where to stay: The Bottleworks Hotel is an Art Deco dream that anchors an eponymous retail and commercial district. It just earned a Michelin Key – one of just two Indy properties to receive this coveted award. Marriott enthusiasts will enjoy the boutique feel of the Hotel Indy. With an excellent location just around the corner from Monument Circle and a fun rooftop bar, it’s a solid choice for any getaway. Stay tuned for the new kid on the block, The InterContinental, which is now accepting reservations from mid-January 2025. 

• What to pack: It’s still the Midwest, so casual is the name of this travel wardrobe game. I tend to bring layers as the weather can change on a dime like much of the region. Think sweaters, denim, comfortable boots, scarves and boxy tees. During colder weather, a structured fleece is another go-to for me. For nighttime, I tend to build in refresh time before evening festivities. That way, I can swap in a dress or blouse to fancy up my look a little. 

Friday 

Morning: Wake up refreshed to tackle your first day in Indiana’s capital city. I’m a big fan of starting any trip with a bang and really packing a lot of activity into the first day, so fuel your adventures with a stop at Borage in Speedway. This new-ish spot is a full-on madhouse on the weekends, but weekdays tend to be a little quieter, so you should have no trouble getting in.

Part farm-fresh market, part bougie bruncherie, Borage is helmed by a charming husband-and-wife team who met at the other major brunch player in town, Milktooth (don’t worry, we’re going there later). Grab a latte and breakfast sammie from the seasonally inspired menu, and enjoy the ambiance of eclectic thrifted art on the walls in the inviting, bright space.

How to spend the day: Next up, and just around the corner from Borage, all roads lead to the Indianapolis Motor Speedway (IMS). Perhaps most famously, Indianapolis is home to the Indy 500, the largest single-day sporting event in the world. So it tracks (pun intended) that an iconic stop on any city tour is a visit to IMS. The onsite museum is currently undergoing a massive renovation slated to be completed in April 2025, but the track remains open for tours.

Be sure to kiss the finish line (a visitor tradition), which holds the only original bricks from the earlier iteration of the track (where its nickname “the Brickyard” came from). Non-racing fans can find something to love at IMS, too. From the famed Snake Pit EDM show to a Pete Dye-designed golf course in the center, there are all sorts of fun activities. If you're feeling peckish, swing into The AMP. This local food hall features vendors serving out of brightly colored shipping containers. Do not leave without getting a glitter strawberry from Punkin’s Pies. 

Afterward, get out on the water with Frank’s Paddlesports Livery, a local provider of canoe, paddleboard, and kayak rentals and experiences whose mission is to “Make Indy a River City.” I recently opted to do a guided paddle on the White River, a formerly polluted waterway that has since been transformed into a clean, clear and calm urban oasis.

No matter your paddle prowess, the delightful team will make you feel comfortable and confident tackling the rapids. Truly, a paddle on the White River is the perfect way to spend an active afternoon in Indy. 

Dinner: After a little refresh back at the hotel, it’s time for dinner. If I lived in Indianapolis, I’d have a standing reservation at Tinker Street. This teeny charmer has the feel of a beloved, shabby-chic neighborhood haunt. With an inventive menu (I see you, Korean-fried mushrooms) and a complimentary bubbly “Tinker Toast” to start each meal, it’s no wonder this eatery feels like home after just one visit. Reservations are strongly encouraged at this Herron Morton gem.

If you can't find a table at Tinker, Vida in nearby Lockerbie Square is a helluva consolation prize. It’s located less than two miles away, aka less than a 10-minute drive if you’re speaking Midwestern. Homegrown Chef Thomas Melvin’s spot is an elevated take on local fare with an international twist. On my recent visit, I loved the tasting menu experience, and the ricotta donuts were an especially memorable dessert. 

After dark: Want a little late-night beverage after your meal? Try Solely Wine, a brand-new neighborhood wine bar and bottle shop down the street from Tinker that focuses on low-intervention sips. A thoughtful icon system (for organizing and shelving) helps customers uncork and connect in an approachable way. 

Saturday 

Morning: Depending on where you’re staying, grab a local cup of joe and a quick breakfast at Blue Collar Coffee Co, Amelia’s (multiple locations), or Calvin Fletcher’s Coffee Company. (An early lunch is on the agenda, hence the light start to this day.) 

How to spend the day: There are plenty of RH (formerly Restoration Hardware) galleries and restaurants in the world, but there are only a few that are former estates or private homes. In Indy, it’s practically mandatory to walk around RH Indianapolis to ogle at the 42,000-sq-ft villa-turned-art-and-furniture showroom.

Boasting 60 rooms, a 35-acre private lake, and 151-acre gardens, it’s a true showstopper. The space opens daily at 10am. While you’re there, enjoy a leisurely lunch (the restaurant is open from 10am at the weekend). I’m a sucker for a BLT, and theirs is great; a simple, elegant Caesar Salad is another winner. 

Keep the artsy vibes going with a visit to Newfields, the Indianapolis Museum of Art, on its expansive campus mere minutes from RH Indy. Pieces by Picasso, Cézanne, Calder, Lichtenstein and more delight visitors. Don’t miss the interactive THE LUME exhibit on the 4th floor, currently a fun, poppy look at surrealist icon Dalí, complete with Spanish-inspired cocktails. 

Dinner: For dinner tonight, try Bluebeard, whose moniker is a nod to Indy’s own Kurt Vonnegut. From downtown, the restaurant can be accessed by walking on the celebrated Cultural Trail, a linear park that connects the city’s Cultural Districts. The fall pasta is a smash hit, and trust me, I’m not usually one to wax poetically about kale. The dukkah spiced pumpkin seeds are chef’s kiss.

Pro tip: this spot accepts walk-ins only, so come prepared to sit inside or outside for the quickest service. (Outside is great, as the patio is one of the city’s best!) 

After dark: One block south of Bluebeard, you'll find an awesome tiki bar: The Inferno Room. An expansive cocktail menu means there’s something for everyone, including multiple mocktails that are more than just an afterthought. Note the incredible collection of Papua New Guinea art on the walls, an esteemed grouping that rivals many museums. 

Sunday 

Morning: At long last, the restaurant that helped put Indy on the national food map – Milktooth. Just know you might need to settle in for a wait since it’s hopping every weekend. This spot is known for its Dutch baby pancakes, with a sweet and savory option on the menu daily, but the toppings change frequently. If you only have time to do one thing on Sunday, make it this place. 

The neighborhood that houses Milktooth, Fletcher Place, is also known for its independent stores. My personal favorite is Howl + Hide, a colorful leather goods maker. Other nearby small businesses that deserve a little love include Square Cat Vinyl, Snakeroot Botanicals, Rooftop Fruit and Flux. 

How to spend the day: If you have some wiggle room in your schedule, embrace nostalgia with a visit to the Children’s Museum of Indianapolis, the largest in the country. Alternatively, spend some time in the Near Eastside enclave of Windsor Park, which is connected to the Monon Trail and the Cultural Trail.

A slew of local businesses call the Factory Arts District (formerly known as the Circle City Industrial Complex) home. Try the weird and wonderful Indy-invented sport of Fowling, sort of a football/bowling hybrid, at the Fowling Warehouse. Want to get artsy? Attend a class at Indy Fused Glass – even my artistically challenged self managed to craft a very pretty stained glass-inspired coaster set during an afternoon there. Prefer to simply imbibe? This area has you covered, too, with brewery and distillery options. Sample the famed canned cocktails at 8th Day Distillery, which also crafts its own artisan gin, absinthe, rum and whiskey. 

Even with three days in Indy, we’ve just barely scratched the surface of this vibrant destination. Come back for a special sporting event, the big race or a concert and get to know the Circle City even better. Like a fine wine, it just gets better with age.