How to spend the ultimate weekend in Amsterdam

I spent a long weekend in Amsterdam, but it might not be exactly the one you’re imagining. Sure, there were bike rides, brown bars and buttery cakes, but also paddleboarding on the canals and treasure hunts in the lanes of The Jordaan.

I stayed on the edge of the Museum Quarter, one of Amsterdam's most interesting neighborhoods, right where it meets De Pijp over the canal – well away from the frenetic intensity and souvenir shops of the city center. Picture mornings by the water, cobblestone streets leading to cozy cafes and local bars that feel more like someone's living room than part of a busy capital city.

Drawing from my favorite moments from that trip, as well as insider tips I picked up from locals and colleagues during my time at Lonely Planet, I've put together the ultimate guide for enjoying a relaxed weekend in Amsterdam.

• When to arrive: The sweet spot for travel is late September to early October. It’s still warm, but the summer crowds are dialing back. Winter is chilly but cozy – there's always somewhere dry and interesting to explore, from world-class museums to come-hither nooks and toasty-warm brown bars (local pubs).

• How to get from the airport: From Amsterdam's Schiphol airport, hop on the train to Amsterdam Centraal (€5.90 for a single ticket, 15–20 minutes), or take the Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS) train to Amsterdam Zuid (€4.30 for a single, 7 minutes) and change to the city Metro.

• Getting around town: Trams connect every corner of the city and run like clockwork. The I Amsterdam City Card combines free entry to major attractions (after payment for the card) with unlimited travel on public transport; purchase the pass online before you arrive in Amsterdam. Or if you're game, rent a bike and pedal the streets like a local. Just be ready to share the lanes with seasoned cyclists who are keen on getting places fast; stay sharp and avoid blocking the lanes if you pause to people-watch.
  

• What to pack: Comfortable shoes for walking and warm layers. And don't forget a rain jacket or umbrella, no matter what the season. 

• Where to stay: Residential areas such as De Pijp and The Jordaan have lots of character and are conveniently close to the major attractions. I stayed at Avani Museum Quarter, serving up calm convenience on the boundary of De Pijp and Museumplein. The hotel is close to all the major museums and overlooks a canal in a quieter part of the city.

Friday is for cycling and museums

Morning: Drop your bags at the hotel and head straight to Bakkerij Mater in De Pijp. The smell of fresh sourdough alone is enough to tempt you inside, and their bread and butter pudding, still warm from the oven, will shake off any lingering travel fatigue. If you're after something more substantial, sandwiches stacked high on crusty bread are another great option. Grab your coffee to go and sip by the canal. 

How to spend the day: Let the exploration begin! Hop on a bike to see the city like a true Amsterdammer – many hotels arrange guided bike tours, but if you're lucky, you'll get someone like the guide my hotel hooked me up with: a tour guide who also works at the Rijksmuseum and who'll pedal and reel off 17th-century trivia at the same time. The journey starts with a spin along the wide paths of Vondelpark before heading deeper into the city, pedaling through Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets) and across the Skinny Bridge to the Jewish Quarter.

While you cycle, keep an eye out for small, intricate carvings and quirky motifs on canal-side buildings, such as storks marking the former homes of midwives and gold coins for banks. I'd never paid attention to these details before, but there's a cool reason for them – in the 17th century, most city residents couldn’t read, so these signs helped people navigate and find essential services. Once you notice them, it will feel like you've decoded a hidden Amsterdam language. 

After your bike ride, take some time to wander around Negen Straatjes. The neighborhood is full of small, independent shops and galleries, each offering something a little different. One minute, you'll be wandering through an intriguing photography museum, the next, you'll be trying on cowboy boots in a stocked-to-the-brim vintage store, making your own bracelet in a bead shop or eyeing a suede jacket in Rika Studios that you definitely didn't come here to buy but now can't stop thinking about.

Dinner: When hunger calls, head to Festina Lente on Looiersgracht, where the menu is as diverse as Amsterdam itself. Ingredients are sourced from local suppliers and you'll find Argentinian choripán (chorizo sandwiches) alongside Portuguese caldo verde (green kale and potato soup), all made with quality ingredients. Plus, they have plenty of options for vegetarians and vegans, so no one needs to feel left out.

After dark: If jet lag hasn't caught up with you, stick around at Festina Lente for cocktails, or head to Radio Radio in Westerpark for dancing. For a more laid-back vibe, Bar Oldenhof on Elandsgracht offers creative cocktails, a good wine list and live jazz to wind down your evening. The bartenders here are known for their creativity, so don't be afraid to let them surprise you with something off-menu.

Saturday

Morning: Stroll to the Stedelijk Museum where contemporary and modern art take center stage—think Piet Mondrian and de Kooning in all their bold, abstract glory. When you're ready for a break, the Ten Good Food Cafe in the museum is a solid choice for brunch. Or stretch your legs with a 10-minute walk to Un.Common Cafe for a creamy coffee and unexpected treats such as savory Danish pastries with whipped feta, yuzu pea smash and basil oil. 

How to spend the day: After Stedelijk, you’ve got options: Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum are both a short stroll away, and while it's hard not to be moved by the sheer scale of Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, both museums can get uncomfortably busy. You can get your Rembrandt fix at the smaller, less-crowded (and cuter) Rembrandt House in the city center. Or, if you're after a grittier sort of art, take the ferry to Amsterdam Noord. This former industrial area has reinvented itself as a creative hub, and nowhere is this more apparent than the Straat museum, where vast floor-to-ceiling murals the size of buildings overflow with color and powerful political statements. It feels a world away from the art collections you've just left behind.

A standout piece is Care Portal by Lebanese artist, Jad Al Khoury – a metal shutter pierced by bullet holes that visitors can slip handwritten notes through. Key messages are posted on the back of the shutter and shared with street artists in war zones around the world.

If you're feeling inspired, you can sign up for a 30-minute graffiti workshop at the Straat. They'll kit you out with all the gear (overalls, shoe protectors and a face mask) and let you run wild in their outdoor space with a spray paint gun. It's uninhibited, messy fun.

Dinner: Close out the evening at Skate Cafe near the Straat. This spot mixes skate culture, great food (they regularly run guest-chef dinners), open-mic nights and live music into one exciting whole. You've also got the supremely buzzy Cornerstore nearby for Asian-inspired plates, rotating vinyl selection and really cool wine menu.

For something more intimate, Gertrude near Vondelpark is small but cozy and their seasonal seafood dishes are worth planning your schedule around. If you're more of a last-minute diner, Cafe Cenc in Amsterdam-Centrum is a good bet for a spontaneous walk-in dinner of Mediterranean-inspired small plates.

After dark: Skate Cafe keeps going until 3am, but if you've still got energy (or just really good stamina), you could always try your luck at nearby Garage Noord, the former car repair shop turned nightclub that's still going when the sun comes up. A more laid-back but still lively option is De Nieuwe Anita in the West, a long-standing local favorite with a speakeasy vibe that stays open until 1.30am.

Sunday

Morning: Spend your morning in The Jordaan, a neighborhood where you'll probably catch yourself thinking, "I wish I lived here" over and over again. Expect pretty canal-side houses, art galleries and indie cafes where people seem to actually know the baristas.

My hotel hooked me up with a self-guided street art treasure hunt, complete with a map and clues to follow. It took me deep into corners of The Jordaan that I would never have found on my own. It was the perfect hook for a Sunday morning spent wandering down quiet streets, passing hidden gardens and colorful houseboats with owners sitting on deck sipping coffee and flipping through the morning papers.

How to spend the day: Stay in The Jordaan and visit the Anne Frank Huis, where the teenage diarist spent two years hiding from the Nazis. Visiting is a powerful and profoundly moving experience, but be sure to book ahead. Afterward, slow things down with a stand-up paddleboarding jaunt around the canals with Canal SUP. If balancing isn't your strong point, they’ve got kayaks too.

It’s a sublimely peaceful way to see the city. Amsterdam slows down when viewed from the water, and everything feels closer and more intimate. As you glide past the houseboats, you'll be able to spot details easily missed when exploring at street level. Pull up at Waterkant for a cold beer and a casual bite – if it's a warm day, join the locals dipping their legs into the water.

Dinner: After dropping off your kayak or paddleboard, take a 15-minute stroll to Bar Centraal on Ten Katestraat for a glass of wine and a bowl of their dark chocolate mousse – the mix of olive oil, caramelized hazelnuts and sea salt turns something simple into a work of genius. Honestly, get it before dinner - it’s that good!

You could stick around in Bar Centraal for a full meal or make your way over to Vooges Aan 't IJ, a family-run restaurant overlooking the Ij River. Staff are ultra-attentive and warm, while dishes like sea bream ceviche and ribeye in lemon butter are paired with an interesting selection of wines and a lively cocktail menu. 

After dark: Not ready to call it a night? Make your way to Cafe de Jonge Wees, a classic, old-school Amsterdam brown bar (local pub). You'll find no pretensions here, just quality drinks, warmly lit corners and a crowd that has come to settle in for the night. 

Bonus tips

1. If you have an extra day, take a day trip to Utrecht. It's just as scenic as Amsterdam but feels way calmer and easier to navigate. The train ride from Amsterdam Centraal is only 25 minutes, and a ticket costs €9.

2. If you can, visit IJ-Hallen, the largest flea market in Europe. It's open one weekend each month from 9am to 4.30pm. Get there early to avoid crowds and stop for a coffee and snack at Komoten Brood before you head in.

3. Traveling on a budget? Here's a list of free and reasonably-priced things to do in Amsterdam.
   

Sasha traveled to Amsterdam at the invitation of Avani Hotels. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.