These are the best places to travel this summer

Ljubljana, Slovenia’s wonderful vibrant, bijou capital, is a breathtakingly beautiful and endlessly captivating place. Baroque and art nouveau architecture, riverside promenades, excellent museums and galleries, and plenty of green spaces, are all offset by a good dose of grunge, street art and edgy counterculture, along with a seemingly never-ending array of fantastic places to eat and drink.

Set in the lowlands in the center of Slovenia, but surrounded by rolling hills, and within sight of the snow-streaked Kamnik-Savinja Alps, it’s easily explored on foot (though you can also take advantage of the city’s excellent bike-hire scheme, or join a SUP tour on the river), and its accommodations range from cool hostels to boutique luxury. Ljubljana remains one of Europe’s least known capitals, but it’s nevertheless one of the most charming – a city which quite frankly is impossible not to fall in love with.

A large medieval castle sits on a hilltop surrounded by trees above a city.
Ljubljana Castle at sunset. Matej Kastelic/Shutterstock

1. Visit Ljubljana Castle

Ljubljana’s most prominent landmark, its medieval castle sits brooding on a hill above the old town, all stout walls and defensive towers. Much of what you see now dates from the 1400s, although the castle is recorded as early as the 13th century. Over the centuries, as well as a fortress and residence, it has functioned as a powder store, prison and military hospital, and part of it was used as apartments up until the 1960s.

Explore the castle with an audio guide, or take the "Time Machine" tour where six periods of the castle’s history are explained by guides in period dress. Head for the Viewing Tower for the best views out over the city. There are also several places to eat and drink up here, including the Castle Café and two restaurants, Gostilna na Gradu and the Michelin-listed Strelec.

Planning tip: The funicular runs up to the castle from Krekov trg. Alternatively, it’s an easy 10-minute walk following one of several well-kept footpaths, including one from Vodnikov trg near the Central Market.

2. Admire the architecture of Jože Plečnik

Ljubljana has some beautiful architecture, including several standout art nouveau buildings. The name behind much of the city’s most striking and memorable architecture – and it would be fair to say, much of the look of modern Ljubljana – is that of Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik. Having already led the renovation of Prague Castle, Plečnik returned to Ljubljana and in the 1920s and '30s was responsible for a whole series of architectural and planning projects, including the Triple Bridge, the colonnades at the Central Market, Trnovo Embankment and the National University Library. Other art nouveau buildings to see (though not by Plečnik) include the Vurnik House, People’s Loan Building and the Municipal Savings Building, all within a few steps of Prešerenov trg.

Detour: Learn more about Slovenia’s most famous architect at Plečnik House, a small museum in the architect’s former home and studio in the quiet Trnovo neighborhood. Book tickets online in advance – the visit is by guided tour, and places do sell out.

Three stand-up paddleboarders approach a bridge over a river in a city.
Stand-up paddlers on the Ljubljanica river. Fotopogledi/Shutterstock

3. Stroll beside the Ljubljanica

The River Ljubljanica sweeps through the center of the Slovenian capital, spanned by multiple bridges, its riverside promenades lined with cafes, bars and restaurants. This is the beating heart of the city – a place to stroll and to linger, be it over a coffee or a glass of wine, a slice of cake or an al fresco dinner. Perhaps the most photographed bridge is the Dragon Bridge, built in 1900 and guarded at each end by a pair of suitably menacing-looking green, copper dragons. The Butcher’s Bridge is easy to spot by the large and highly expressive sculptures of Prometheus, a satyr and Adam and Eve, as well as by the love-locks hanging from its railings. Look a little closer, and you’ll see a weird and wonderful series of small sculptures along the railings, their subject matter (think fish heads and cuttlefish-like beasties) a reference to the adjacent market.

Detour: Parallel to the river and set one street back from its right bank, Mestni trg is another of the city’s most atmosphere-laden spots, with plenty of small boutique shops and bars.

4. Savor street food at Ljubljana’s Central Market

Ljubljana’s big, open-air market occupies a large square, Vodnikov trg, along with the smaller, adjacent Pogačarjev trg (the area alongside Plečnik’s colonnade). It’s a vibrant, authentic spot where locals (including some well-known Slovenian chefs) come to buy fresh produce, and to stop and chat. If you want a flavor of everyday life in the Slovenian capital, this is the place to start. 

Planning tip: The market is at its liveliest in the first part of the day, and is open from 6am–6pm Monday to Friday, and until 4pm on Saturday. Every sunny Friday between March and October, Pogačarjev trg becomes the venue for one of Slovenia’s best-loved food festivals. Odprta kuhna (Open Kitchen) sees dozens of food stalls serving delicious and good value Slovenian cuisine along with wine, beer, cocktails and more, with plenty of pub benches to sit at.  

A white-brick museum building located in a lush garden
The Museum Building in Ljubljana where the National Museum of Slovenia and the Slovenian Museum of Natural History are located. Glyn Spencer/Shutterstock

5. Delve into Slovenian culture at Ljubljana’s museums and galleries

Ljubljana is home to many of Slovenia’s best museums and galleries – and you should really aim to visit at least a few of them to do the city justice. The Ljubljana City Museum is the place to discover the history of the Slovenian capital, while the Museum of Modern Art MG+ has a fantastic collection of works by Slovenian artists from the 20th century (and is home to one of the city’s coolest cafes). Other must-sees include the Slovenian Ethnographic Museum, covering everything from folk costumes to traditional painted beehive panels to post-industrial grunge, along with the National Museum of Slovenia and the National Gallery of SloveniaCukrarna is the city’s newest contemporary art gallery, housed in a renovated sugar refinery beside the Ljubljanica.

Planning tip: If you’re planning to visit several museums and galleries in the capital, invest in a Ljubljana Card. This bags you free entry to over 30 attractions (but not the castle), plus unlimited free travel on trams and buses, one return ride on the funicular, a river cruise and more. Cards cost €41/49/54  (24-/48-/72-hours).

6. Discover alternative Ljubljana – Metelkova

Metelkova is the epicenter of counterculture in Ljubljana, a former military barracks turned squat turned vibrant and hard-won cultural space. This is where you’ll find some of the city’s most authentic clubs and live music venues – check out Gromka and Galla Halla – along with artist’s studios and plenty of street art. It’s home to NGOs and is a bastion of the city’s LGBTQ+ community. The former prison has been converted into the excellent Hostel Celica, with guest rooms in former cells, each having been given a makeover by a different artist.

Detour: Ljubljana’s other focus of alternative culture is Šiška, an area northwest of the railway station, including the Kino Šiška cultural center.

People dine at tables beside food stalls at an open-air culinary night market.
Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen), a popular outdoor culinary market in Ljubljana. Matej Kastelic/Shutterstock

7. Eat out at Ljubljana’s best restaurants

Food is a reason in itself to visit Slovenia. And while it’s definitely not the case that all of Slovenia’s best restaurants are located in the capital – some of its most famous ones are dotted far and wide across the country – there’s definitely a whole slew of knockout places to eat in Ljubljana, from street food to fine dining. So without further ado, here are a few restaurants in Ljubljana not to miss. 

AFTR has fantastic food in a laid-back setting, with a short menu and an emphasis on sharing plates. At TaBar you’ll find a Slovenian twist on tapas, accompanied by some lip-smackingly good Slovenian wines. Most is an excellent place beside the river, while Pri Škofu is a lovely little family-owned restaurant serving traditional dishes in the quiet Krakovo neighborhood. JB is Slovenia’s original fine-dining experience, founded in the early '90s by chef Janez Bratovž (widely regarded as the father of modern Slovenian cuisine), and Jaz is the outstandingly good new restaurant opened by Ana Roš of Hiša Franko fame.

Insider tip: If you’re after a place to drink rather than a place to eat, look to Kolibri for top-notch cocktails, Šuklje or Supernatural for Slovenian wines, and Lajbah for craft beers. And if you're visiting the city from March to October, don't miss eating at Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen), a popular open-air culinary project that takes place every Friday.

8. Make a day trip to Ljubljana Marshes or Škofja Loka

Distances in Slovenia are small and you can get from Ljubljana to the Adriatic coast in just 90 minutes. So, if you have time – and you should always make time when it comes to Slovenia – consider throwing in a day trip or two from the capital. While the glaringly obvious contenders are Bled or Postojna – the two most-visited places in Slovenia, both easily reached from Ljubljana by public transport – the insider tip would be to head for the Ljubljana Marshes or Škofja Loka instead. Just south of the city, Ljubljana Marshes form an extraordinary landscape, which is protected as a nature reserve. Škofja Loka is a beautifully preserved little town set beside the River Sora, famous for its UNESCO-listed Passion Play, which is so large and elaborate that it only takes place every six years – the next one is in 2026.

Planning tip: For Ljubljana Marshes, take bus #191 from Ljubljana bus station (Avtobusna postaja Ljubljana) and get off in Ig, where you’ll find the Ljubljana Marshes Information Centre. For Škofja Loka, take the direct bus (Škofja Loka is the final destination so it will be signed) that leaves from outside Ljubljana’s main railway station.

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