Brighton is one of the more distinct corners of the UK. eyematter/Shutterstock
Brighton is many things to many people. Jolly seaside resort, LGBTQ+ nirvana, London-on-sea and a happy haven to life’s oddballs and misfits (there’s good reason for the "Keep Brighton Weird" slogan). This south coast city is certainly one of the more distinct corners of the UK, and there’s a reason visitors continue to pour down in their droves. Including me.
I’ve been fascinated by this place for years and continue to visit as often as I can. While Brighton’s Victorian promenade and flaring orange sunsets are evocative, it’s the gregarious atmosphere, tolerant attitudes and subversive tendencies that draw me in, and that mindset is reflected everywhere, from friendly cafe staff to colorful street art. There aren’t many places I visit to happily lose myself, but Brighton is one.
Here’s my ultimate weekend in Brighton:
When to arrive: Most hotels will allow you to leave your luggage behind the desk free of charge if you arrive early on Friday and want to explore a little. However, it may be better to arrive on Thursday evening to get settled in, enjoy something to eat from a local restaurant and start the following morning in Brighton.
How to get from the airport: Brighton doesn’t have its own airport, but if you’re traveling from outside the UK, try to book a flight into London Gatwick Airport. The journey south from Gatwick is just 30 minutes and - mercifully - you don’t have to navigate London either. Brighton’s handsome Victorian train station is well-positioned in the center of town to walk or taxi to hotels.
Getting around town: Brighton is a compact and walkable city, though it can rise significantly in neighborhoods behind the flat coastal promenade, especially West Hill and Hanover. While there is no rapid transit, buses are regular in Brighton and are useful for traveling anywhere between Hove and Brighton Marina, as well as directly to the train station. You can also take the train one stop between Brighton and Hove.
Where to stay: There are no high-end luxury stays in Brighton, but there are several mid-range hotels that work well. The Maldron Hotel is a slick recent addition and is a stone’s throw from the seafront (it offers a fantastic buffet breakfast too). Around the corner is the iconic Grand Brighton Hotel, a Victorian-Italianate fixture on the Promenade since 1864. If you’d like to be closer to the train station, the Ibis Brighton City Centre is useful. There are also a host of classic British bed-and-breakfasts strewn across several neighborhoods, if you’d prefer a cozier experience.
What to pack: Brighton is on the south coast, but biting winds from the English Channel can give even the sunniest day a chill. So always pack a layer or two, no matter the time of year, though sunblock and sunglasses are still always a good idea. Winters here are milder than in other parts of the country, but you’ll still need to wrap up. And don’t be afraid to pack garish clothes either - freedom of expression is very much promoted in this city.
Day 1
Morning
Brighton has more quality coffee shops than it knows what to do with, so getting a good caffeine fix is like Christmas morning here. On Prince Albert St, the sleek, airy interior of Workshop Coffee Lab is as impressive as its locally roasted coffee while within the labyrinth-like Lanes, Komodo Speciality Coffee’s punchy Marzocco-crafted espressos are a perfect pick-me-up.
This first day will be all about exploring the seafront, so soak in the sea air at the beach and pick up a flaky croissant from the Flower Pot Bakery before the walk. If you’re a little more famished, they also make a sausage, egg, cheese and spinach breakfast bun.
How to spend the day
A walk along the promenade is a feast for the senses as you pass sunbathers, joggers, dog walkers, basketball players, cafes, boutiques, clubs and an Upside Down House. And I’ll never not be transfixed by the macabre skeletal remains of the West Pier, which collapsed into the sea in 2003 following a fire.
For a true introduction to Brighton’s landscape, the 162-meter-high i360 is the place to start. The incongruous tower was controversial when completed in 2016, altering Brighton’s seafront forever, but there’s no denying its sublime views. With the electrically powered viewing deck soaring up then descending like a piston 20 minutes later, the vistas toward the white cliffs of Beachy Head and the lumpy South Downs hills are majestic. There’s also a bar, so you can sip on champagne while enjoying the scenery.
Brighton once had three piers, but all that remains now is the gaudy Palace Pier. Built in 1899, it has everything one might expect from a pier, including an amusement park with rollercoasters, fairground rides, fish and chips, ice cream, slot machines, arcades and far too many curious seagulls (keep an eye on your ice cream).
Dinner
When the sun sinks low, there are few better places to kick back than Bison Beach Bar. And especially when enjoying a pint of their own locally brewed beer on the upper level, watching the waves break as their DJ spins a few tunes.
Head back down through Kemptown, in the heart of Brighton’s LGBTQ+ community and perhaps stop by a couple of pubs like the candlelit Black Dove or the far more flamboyant Queen’s Arms. A large food hall serving a smorgasbord of cuisine from seven quality kitchens, Shelter Hall is a wonderfully convivial spot, and it’s best to grab a table and order from the app. Get stuck into succulent bao from Temaki Bros, unctuous chicken burgers from Lost Boys Chicken and salty steaks from Stakehaus.
After dark
See out the night at Brighton’s quirky nautical-themed pub, the Fortune of War. I always enjoy sitting in the cozy window upstairs, though if the weather is warm then the fairylight-strewn beer garden is still a great spot for a drink.
Day 2
Morning
Kick off day two with a wander into North Laine, arguably Brighton’s most colorful and vibrant corner. But before exploring the delights of these subversive streets, it’s time to eat.
Hiding in plain sight on the corner of North Road and Regent St, Breakfast at Tiffany’s is a no-nonsense greasy-spoon cafe that serves up one of the best value breakfasts in the city, with a gut-busting all-day fry-up.
How to spend the day
Now it’s time to meander North Laine and its cornucopia of bizarre boutiques, tattoo parlors, antiques shops and crowded cafes in full, and really it’s a case of shuffling through the crowds and dropping inside wherever takes your fancy. Snooper’s Paradise is a mazy bric-a-brac emporium, while just across the street is Resident, a breezy record store that doubles up nicely as a serene sanctuary from the crowds. Also, don’t miss the Last Bookshop, where every book is under £5 ($3.68).
Head just north to grab a sweet treat from the fabulous Glazed, whose handmade vegan donuts with creative toppings like chocolate and caramelized banana rarely disappoint. Then take a walk south past Victoria Gardens to the Royal Pavillion, one of Brighton’s most recognizable sights, with its Indo-Saracenic style onion domes and skinny minarets. Built for King George IV in the late 18th century, its banqueting and music rooms are absurdly ostentatious, adorned by gargantuan chandeliers and gilded chairs, forming an almost British equivalent of Hearst Castle.
Dinner
As a British seaside resort, Brighton isn’t short of classic fish and chips shops, though if you feel like pushing the boat out a little, head to Cyan inside The Grand hotel. Its fine views of the rolling coast and the jaunty lights of the Palace Pier are lovely, but it’s the tender haddock and chunky jenga-like chips that really separate this place from the rest. Another bonus - no seagulls.
After dark
While there are no big arenas here, Brighton’s gig venues are wonderfully varied and host some cracking shows, from the intimate 150-capacity room upstairs at counterculture pub The Hope and Ruin to the historic Brighton Dome. The brutalist Brighton Centre is the city’s largest venue and hosts the biggest acts, while the neon-flecked Komedia in North Laine presents huge arts programs and is one of the best venues in the country for stand-up comedy. Check the listings and see what’s on while you’re in town.
Day 3
Morning
Set around a slightly chaotic island, Seven Dials is one of my favourite Brighton neighborhoods, and it’s a great spot for starting the day. Adorned in floral decoration, T @ The Dials is a breezy vegan spot serving up plant-based sandwiches, buns and oats, though my favorite is the smoky chorizo shakshuka.
If you prefer food on the go, then Hellenic Bakery is a treasure trove of Greek breakfast pastries like bougatsa and sweeter options like pistachio baklava. Grab an organic coffee from Scandi-inspired BROR and you’re good to go.
How to spend the day
If you have time for a day trip, there are a couple of interesting things to do just outside of the city.
You probably spotted the Seven Sisters white cliffs from the i360’s heady summit, and its an easy train ride from Brighton station out to Seaford where you can then walk the stunning chalk coast path and see the cliffs up close.
On a more leisurely level, there are several vineyards - yes, really - just north of Brighton and if you have car, then Ridgeview Wine Estate and Artelium Estate are particularly special English sparkling wine experiences less than 30 minutes from the city. And if you really want to ham it up, then Great British Wine Tours operate lively group trips into the Sussex wine country in an almost cartoonish 1960s Routemaster vintage bus.
Dinner
A much shorter excursion is out to Hove, Brighton’s neighbor (the city’s official name is Brighton and Hove - ask a local about “Hove, actually”). Despite residing by the coast, this area isn’t particularly known for fine seafood beyond fish and chips, but The Urchin is a serious exception. This whitewashed brewpub on residential Belfast St is a delight from the moment their glistening Jersey rock oysters are brought out as the inevitable starter. The menu is a mixture of squid, crab and prawn dishes. Check the chalkboard specials menu, where the chefs get a little more creative.
After dark
Head back to North Laine after for a nightcap at my favorite pub, the Great Eastern. This tightly packed spot is always soundtracked by great music (often by live DJs), has a jovial atmosphere and is lined on the back shelves with a great bourbon whiskey selection.
Speaking of that particular amber nectar, a short stroll up Trafalgar St is Cut Your Wolf Loose (you can’t miss the bright red neon sign). While nominally a whisky bar with over 400 different drams to sip on, the staff here are more than happy to pour out some devilishly creative cocktails and strange pairings. Best of all, the whole bar is a living canvas with a box of felt pens on a side shelf. So leave a permanent mark here, and there will always be a part of you in Brighton.
