The Lonely Planet guide to Roma and Condesa in Mexico City

Considered two of the most emblematic neighborhoods in Mexico City for their historical architectural value, bohemian lifestyle, and diverse gastronomical offerings, Colonia Roma and Colonia Condesa are destinations of their own.

Residents here are a mix of white-collar to creative-type chilangos (as Mexico City locals are often called) and mid- to long-term migrants from other North American and European nations looking for a picturesque zipcode. 

A bit of history

Founded in 1903, Roma drew the attention of the Mexican bourgeois society for the services the new neighborhood intended to provide – running water, plumbing, and street lights – all embellished with lush Parisian-style boulevards, public gardens, and plazas. Many affluent families and businesses established residences in Roma, building stunning stone-brick mansions and apartment buildings with intentional beauty, following the architectural belle époque and art nouveau styles of the time. 

Condesa neighborhood came a bit later and was officially founded in 1927, after the turmoil of the Mexican Revolution. Condesa's iconic art deco style is everywhere. From apartment buildings to street signs, parks, roundabouts, facades, and family townhouses, the neighborhood's unique charm lies in the unique blend of bougainvillea-clad walls with iconic architecture. Throughout many decades, Mexican poets, writers, painters, actors and socialites have left their bohemian aura in the enclave of Roma and Condesa. 

The 1985 Mexico City earthquake was a turning point for both neighborhoods. Roma and Condesa were severely affected, and many families and businesses decided to move out, initiating a period of abandonment and neglect that lasted close to 20 years. In the early 2000s, young artists and hipsters saw opportunities in the area, bringing the gentrification that has heavily transformed the area into what it is now: an enclave with the best restaurants in town, an exciting mixture of cocktail and wine bars, art galleries, coworking spaces, specialty coffee shops, boutique hotels, and design stores with artisanal crafts and local brands. 

Getting there and around

It can take up to 45 minutes via Uber or taxi to travel from Terminal 1 or 2 of Mexico City's International Airport Benito Juarez to Roma or Condesa. 

Once in the area, both neighborhoods are pleasantly walkable, and Mexico City's public bicycle system service, Ecobici, offers 7-day plans that make it convenient for visitors to move around.

Even though Roma and Condesa are centrally located, it usually takes 35 minutes to get to other neighborhoods like Polanco, Centro Histórico, or San Rafael via taxi, and even 1 hour to the Southern areas of Coyoacán and Pedregal. The subway system is accessible too. Several stations reach both neighborhoods – Insurgentes, Chilpancingo, Patriotismo – but prepare to face big crowds during rush hour since millions of locals use public transit to travel the city.

Where to stay

Roma and Condesa offer an array of accommodations to suit every traveler's needs, from small and locally-run hostal options for the budget-conscious to serious luxury and style for those seeking to splurge. 

Save: Casa Pancha offers the affordability of hostel-style accommodation with a mature sense of hospitality and design. Located on the outskirts of Condesa, it provides bunk beds in shared rooms with a 4 to 8-person capacity for about US$35 per night, depending on the season. If you stay in Casa Pancha, make time to walk in for dinner at Gaba, the restaurant adjacent to the hostel. The restaurant is casual yet offers a menu designed by Victor Toriz, considered among the best young chefs in Mexico City.

Spend: Nested in the heart of Roma Norte, Ignacia Guest House combines a restored turn-of-the-century Porfirian mansion with colorful, mid-century interior design. Each room has a specific color palette with neutral accents on the decor and linen. The back courtyard is secluded and tranquil, filled with greenery, an ideal space for enjoying a Mexican-style breakfast – included in the stay. Rooms start at around US$300. Ignacia Guest House is within walking distance of some of the area's best restaurants, including Lalo and Mi Compa Chava. 

Spend more: Listed among the best small luxury hotels in the world, La Valise Mexico City sits on a corner 1920s French-style townhouse in the iconic Colima street in Roma Norte. The exquisite decoration of each suite sets the mood for an unforgettable stay in Mexico City's iconic Roma. Just a block away from Panadería Rosetta and the Museum of Objects, MODO, La Valise is worth the US$700 USD price tag if luxury, charm, and a tailored experience are what you are looking for. 

Where to get coffee

Specialty coffee ranks high in Roma and Condesa. Chiquitito Café has an established reputation for quality coffee in Condesa and has been a local favorite for over ten years. Small shops like Post, Tormenta, and BUNA offer a window into the work of local coffee roasters with meticulous bean sourcing and a chill vibe to enjoy your cup sitting by the sidewalk to people-watch. 

Visit Forte Cafe or Constela, both in Roma Norte, if you are looking for a place to sit and grab breakfast or lunch with your morning coffee. 

Where to eat

Roma and Condesa are great neighborhoods to wine and dine, from casual taco joints to the best restaurants in town. In recent years, wine bars with bistro-inspired menus have been Mexico City's drinking trend in Condesa and Roma. Pin Hugo Wine Bar, NIV bar, or Caimán – all three located in Condesa – for a casual dinner over natural wine and bites to share. 

Maíz de Cacao, in Roma Norte, is a corn-centric inspired breakfast spot taking inspiration from the Huasteca region of Mexico. Order a pozol or tejate; both are cacao with corn-based beverages unique to Mexico's culinary heritage. Pair your drink with a short rib tamal, or Huasteca-style scrambled eggs with red sauce. 

Galanga Thai House is also an excellent option for a casual lunch in Roma Norte. Chef Somsri Raksamran serves her homeland's cuisine with local ingredients framed in a stunning Porfirian mansion located in Roma Norte. The dining patio is lush and filled with natural light, perfect for enjoying delicious Thai dishes like crab with Phuket-style curry with jasmine rice or Tom Kem, mackerel cooked over the grill.

Book a tasting menu at EM, a one-Michelin-star restaurant in Roma Norte, for an upscale and celebratory dinner. Chef Lucho Martinez offers a dining experience that has gained worldwide recognition for its elevated culinary technique, elegance in presentation, and overall delicious tasting adventure. Make sure to book ahead of time since it is a sought-after reservation. 

What to do

Check out the art

While the art scene in Mexico City has always – and continues to – flourish, Roma and Condessa are particularly popular with the up-and-comers. As the epicenter of the contemporary art scene in Mexico City, it's worth it to explore the many galleries, exhibits, and events throughout the year. Don’t miss the House of Gaga, in Condes. Its unique curation and avant-garde point of view make it an essential visit for avid collectors and appreciators. Equally important but not nearly as local, Galeria Mascota in Roma Norte focuses on the work of emerging foreign artists.

Visit the Casa Guillermo Tovar de Teresa, an under-the-radar Porfirian mansion with an impressive collection of Novohispanic art open to the public. Once a private-owned state, the house became part of the Slim Foundation in 2019 and offers a window into the life and history of one of the most affluent families in Mexico – the Tovar de Teresa's – who greatly influenced the country's cultural life.

Brush up on your history

Chapultepec Castle, just a short taxi ride from Roma and Condesa is a must-see historic palace to get you caught up on Mexico's history.

Get in your morning jog (or walk)

Amsterdam Avenue is an iconic street for jogging in the morning or taking an afternoon stroll to soak in Condesa's vibe while window shopping. The avenue has a pedestrian median strip overflowing with trees, and it's a premier location for cafes and boutique shops, from vintage and local designer fashion to bookstores and antiques. 

Spend Sunday at the park

Also, Plaza Río de Janeiro is Roma Norte's most famous park. There are restaurants and bars overlooking the plaza, so plan a Sunday morning to walk around Orizaba Street after having brunch around the area. 

Where to shop

In Roma Norte, several boutiques focus on slow or vintage fashion on Colima Street. Avid thrifters should visit The Erre Vintage, Back to Life Clothing and the Cosmopolis Bazar, among several other shops on the same street, between Cuauhtemoc and Insurgentes avenues. Walk one more block to Avenida Alvaro Obregon and visit Pasaje Parian, a restored 1930s commercial alley that gathers several designer projects – from boutique jewelry to home decor – under the same roof. 

My favorite thing to do in Condesa neighborhood

One of the favorite things to do in Condesa is walking around Parque México to people-watch. La Fuente de los Cántaros is a social spot where different activities happen at any time. Some days, people are taking dancing lessons underneath an ivy-covered arch. At other times, kids and teenagers are rollerblading on the concrete plaza while others play around with their pets at the dog park across the fountain. All in all, Parque México is the quintessential place to experience Condesa's low-key culture.

After dark

Club San Luís and Mama Rumba, in Roma Norte, are local favorite spots for salsa dancing with live music in Mexico City.  Go with friends and secure a table by the dance floor. Both clubs are famous for their ambiance and liveliness on weekends. For a cocktail night, head to Brujas, Baltra Bar, or Tlecán, all three options have been raved about in the media. 

What to pre-book 

It is a good idea to book your must-visit lunches and dinners ahead of time. Since the Michelin Guide awarded stars and recognitions in Mexico City in the summer of 2024, restaurants often have a waiting list, and it has become harder to secure a walk-in. 

When to visit

Early February is a high season to visit Mexico City because of Zona Maco. This annual contemporary art exhibit brings together the art community for a week, and most of the social and cultural activity happens around Roma and Condesa. Other sports and holidays to look for are Formula One and Day of the Dead, which occur around late October and early November.