The Lonely Planet guide to Hanalei Bay, Kauaʻi

Once you cross the historic, one-lane steel bridge over Hanalei River, it’s like you’ve gone back in time. Hanalei is the quintessential beach town in Hawaiʻi. No big resorts, no chain restaurants. Just a single road and long stretches of uncrowded beaches and charming shops, many set in old plantation-style buildings. 

For decades this quaint town has lured travelers looking for an escape. It’s been the backdrop of movies like the 1958 musical “South Pacific” and the 2011 film “The Descendants.” It has been immortalized in songs like “Hanalei Moon” by Maui songwriter Bob Nelson and “Hanalei” by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. And it’s just as magical as it seems.

Once the sun sets, though, there’s not a lot to do. But that’s the allure of Hanalei. You’re forced to slow down and relax, actually have the kind of vacation you dreamed.

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What is the history of Hanalei?

If you stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout, you’ll get a sense of what this area was like hundreds of years ago. Below, the Hanalei River flows through lush kalo loʻi (flooded taro fields) against the background of Hīhīmanu Mountain towering above. This fertile valley has been farming taro—the island’s biggest export and a culturally significant crop to Native Hawaiians—for more than 1,000 years. In fact, the vast majority of Hawaiʻi’s taro still comes from Kauaʻi. For about 100 years, farmers also cultivated rice in Hanalei; Hoʻopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill on ʻŌhiki Road is the only remaining rice mill in the state.

Hanalei’s stunning beauty lured aliʻi (Hawaiian royalty) during the 19th century, many to the bay, the largest on the island. The Hanalei Pier was built of wood in 1892 and used as a dock for ships that arrived in Hanalei. As Hanalei’s rice industry grew, so did the pier; in the early 1900s it was extended to 340 feet and the wooden deck was replaced with concrete. But by 1933 the pier wasn’t used for shipping anymore and, instead, became a gathering place for locals. It rose to fame in the 1957 film “South Pacific” and was added to the National Register for Historic Places in Hawaiʻi in 1979.

When should I go to Hanalei Bay?

The best time to visit Hanalei Bay is during the dry season, which, in Hawaiʻi, runs from April to October. It’s sunny and warm, and the ocean, especially during the summer months, is calm, making it ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Winter brings big swells to the island’s north shore, including Hanalei Bay, and that can make ocean conditions dangerous and unpredictable.

In general, Hawaiʻi sees the biggest influx of visitors to all the islands, including Kauaʻi, during the summer break and winter months. But really, the Islands are a great travel destination any time of the year. You’ll often find the best deals — and fewer visitors — during fall and spring.

What is there to do at Hanalei Bay?

One of the most scenic beaches on Kauaʻi, Hanalei Bay stretches for nearly 2 miles, with sheer volcanic palisades — often misted by clouds — rising 4,000 feet behind its golden sands.

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A favorite spot along the bay is on the eastern end, around the historic Hanalei Pier. Known as Black Pot Beach Park — named for a large, iron pot that used to be here and used for cooking meals at community events—this beach park is one of the most popular (and crowded) spots along the bay, especially on weekends. Sunsets here are stunning.

Escape the crowds by walking west along the beach, away from the pier. You won’t have trouble finding a secluded spot to relax or swim in the warm waters of the bay. Mornings tend to be quieter and less crowded, with neighborhood regulars who walk the beach.

The ocean here is a veritable playground, where you can swim, snorkel, stand-up paddleboard and surf. There are surf shops in nearby Hanalei Town where you can rent everything you need for a day in the ocean; some offer surf and stand-up paddle boarding lessons for every skill level.

Where is there to eat around Hanalei Bay?

Hanalei Town boasts quaint cafés, food trucks, lively bars and even high-end dining. This is the original location of Holey Grail, which started serving hand-fried taro doughnuts from a small trailer here in 2018. It garnered a cult following for its plant-based doughnuts fried in coconut oil and flavored in locally grown ingredients like lilikoʻi (passion fruit), chocolate and pitaya (dragon fruit). For the best mai tai on the island—its recipe is a family secret—head to Tahiti Nui. Known as “The Nui” to locals, this Tiki-themed bar is a lot of fun, with live Hawaiian music every night and island-style fare like coconut shrimp and ʻahi poke chips. Its popular lūʻau recently relaunched on Tuesdays and Wednesdays only. Don’t miss it!

Hanalei Poke serves some of the freshest poke on the island. Raw fish (typically ʻahi) is cubed, seasoned and served with rice or salad greens. The Keālia is one of its most popular, with cubed ʻahi tossed with a spicy sesame sauce, macadamia nuts, avocado, fresh mint and cilantro, and watermelon. You can adjust the spiciness of any of its poke.

And enjoy a local treat at Wishing Well Shave Ice. Shave ice is Hawaiʻi’s version of snow cones, though the ice is shaved much finer and the syrups are often island-inspired. This food truck in Hanalei offers both traditional and organic syrups, fresh fruit toppings and ice cream. If you love tropical flavors, order the Tropical Bliss; the shave ice is topped with liliko‘i and coconut syrups and papaya chunks and coconut flakes, with a scoop of macadamia nut ice cream hidden underneath.

What attractions are around Hanalei Bay?

Built in 1837, Waiʻoli Huiʻia Church, with its deep green shingles and stained-glass windows, is a landmark in Hanalei. It was the home of early Christian missionaries, restored in 1921 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A traditional Hawaiian-style service is still held on Sundays. Visit the 1836 Waiʻoli Mission House Museum, behind the church, and see how missionaries to the Islands once lived. The clock on the wall, which was installed in 1866, still keeps perfect time.

About 6 miles west of Hanalei Bay is Limahuli Garden & Preserve, the crown jewel of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Walk the 0.75-mile loop trail and marvel at its native plant collection, which includes rare and endangered species on the verge of extinction like the loʻulu, a native palm, and the cliff-dwelling ʻālula. The garden also boasts an impressive collection of taro varieties.

Every Tuesday afternoon nearby Waipā Foundation hosts a popular farmers market, with a great variety of local and organic produce, freshly baked pies, taro chips and crafts.

How to get to Hanalei Bay?

Located on Kauaʻi’s north shore, Hanalei Bay is about 30 miles north of Līhuʻe. The 45-minute drive follows the scenic Kūhiō Highway (Route 56) from Līhuʻe Airport along the island’s eastern coastline. Once you cross the historic steel one-lane bridge, you’ll be in Hanalei.

The Kauaʻi Bus connects Līhuʻe Airport with Hanalei. Take Route 500 from the bus stop in front of the terminal. Busses run about every hour, starting around 5:30am through 9 pm. Cost is $2 per trip.

Tips for visiting Hanalei Bay

• Since the pandemic, many state-run parks and attractions have implemented online reservation systems. This includes Hāʻena State Park and the gateway Kēʻē Beach, the Kalalau Trail and the fabled Nāpali Coast. (Cost to enter the state park is $10 per vehicle, $5 per person. Kamaʻāina, or state residents, are free.)

• The island may seem small, but the drives can be long. To get from Līhuʻe Airport to Hanalei can take up to an hour. Plan accordingly.

• There’s a reason Kauaʻi is nicknamed the “Garden Isle.” The oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands, Kauaʻi is lush and verdant, thanks to its legendary rain. Mount Waiʻaleʻale, the island’s highest peak, gets an average of about 450 inches of rain per year, making it one of the wettest places on Earth. (Waiʻaleʻale aptly means “overflowing water” in the Hawaiian language.) It’s not a bad idea to bring rain jackets or umbrellas with you, even if you just leave them in your rental car.

• Hawaiʻi was the first state in the U.S. to pass a statewide ban on the sale of sunscreens containing the chemicals oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are known to harm coral reefs. Be sure your sunscreen is reef-safe — or buy some when you get here.

• Bring your own reuseable bag. Hawaiʻi implemented a plastic bag ban in 2015. Businesses now charge a minimum of 15 cents for reusable, compostable plastic or recyclable paper bags. Best to bring along a few reusable bags, especially if you’re hitting a grocery store, shopping for gifts or browsing a farmers market.

• Check store and restaurant hours. With a labor shortage in the Islands, businesses have had to modify their hours due to staffing. Expect longer wait times and slower service, too.