Lonely Planet guide to the Westfjords, Iceland

Iceland’s massive northernmost peninsula, the Westfjords is home to deserted beaches, ink-black cliffs, glacier-gouged valleys and snow-crusted peaks that deliver all the high-drama natural splendor you can imagine.

Yet with only 7000 residents, this fjord-slashed, mountain-studded and almost entirely treeless region feels like a land unto itself, receiving far fewer visitors than Iceland’s better-known regions. The Westfjords was once home to rugged farmers (a few continue to work the land) and today is a paradise of nature, even wilderness, for anyone who makes the effort to get here.

If you’re thinking of joining their ranks, here’s a full guide to Iceland’s Westfjords.

Advertisement

When should I go to the Westfjords?

If you’re one of the hardy few who make it here, bear in mind that the weather can be wild whatever time of year you visit. The short Icelandic summer, from June to August, brings the most settled conditions and the longest days (in midsummer the sun never sets at all). In winter, it’s the polar opposite: just a few hours of daylight a day, with heavy snowfall and ice aplenty.

In the summer high season, all the major mountain passes and ferry routes linking the valleys of the Westfjords are open, making travel relatively straightforward. Summer is also the time when the Westfjords is at its most crowded – relatively speaking – so you’ll need to book ahead at hotels, especially in the main town of Ísafjörður.

Visitor numbers drop off sharply in spring and fall, so these are good times to explore the region’s amazing hiking trails in solitude. Winter is reserved for hardy explorers, but there’s skiing in Isafjördur and you have a decent chance of spotting the northern lights.

How much time should I spend in the Westfjords?

Getting to the Westfjords takes effort, which means it’s not a quick getaway. Several tour operators offer day trips from Reykjavík, though such an excursion is at best ambitious and at worst a grueling slog. Basing yourself in Ísafjörður for a stay of three to five days allows for excursions to such highlights as Dynjandi and Rauðisandur.

A trip of a week or more will let you connect with the Westfjords’ wild nature, slowing down to kayak across magnificent Ísafjarðardjúp, hiking in Hornstrandir or spending a few days cycling along the Westfjords Way.

Is it easy to get in and around the Westfjords?

Not really – but that makes a visit here all the more rewarding. It’s a 225km (140-mile) drive from Reykjavík to Króksfjarðarnes, at the peninsula’s neck, then another 216km (134 miles) onward to Ísafjörður. Icelandair serves Ísafjörður from Reykjavík’s downtown domestic airport; domestic carrier Norlandair also connects Reykjavík with Gjögur, on the Westfjords’ east coast. (Such internal flights don’t come cheap.)

Once here you should count on having a car to get around. Expect roads that are rough and unpaved, if mostly accessible by 2WD vehicles. Tunnels mean the Westfjords Way is free of major mountain passes, except at Dynjandisheiði, a 15km (9.3-mile) gravel road to Dynjandi waterfall, which is snowy much of the year. Gas stations are few and far between.

Boats (between June and September) from Ísafjörður are the only way to reach the Hornstrandir peninsula. In Breiðafjörður, the car ferry Baldur sails year-round to the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Where can I stay in the Westfjords?

For all its vast size, accommodations are scarce in the Westfjords, with just a few hundred rooms in total. Try farm- and homestays for more options; due to low property prices, the region has some excellent short-term rentals.

Located on a residential street in the old part of town, upscale Ísafjörður Hostel has pristine four-bed dorms. Tungudalur Campground sits in a green valley just outside Ísafjörður, with good vibes at the kitchen-dining hut. In Flateyri, you can stay above the landmark Old Bookstore in an apartment with antiques and wood floors.

If you want to hole up in the countryside, Heydalur is a quirky farmstay near Mjóifjörður, with a picturesque pool inside a greenhouse (plus Kobbi, a talking parrot). And Melanes Campsite has hobbit-size, two-person and simply adorable wooden pods right beside the sweeping Rauðasandur cove, with camping also available.

Advertisement

Top things to do in the Westfjords

Discover Iceland’s greatest waterfall

The Westfjords’ best-known spot, the Dynjandi waterfall, is in fact a cascade of six falls. But the grand and picturesque Fjallfoss on top tends to steal the limelight from its smaller siblings below, as visitors walk the path (about 15 minutes) from the parking lot toward the thundering main chute. You’re allowed to approach the massive cascade as it plunges over the mountainside; the views of the broad fjord beyond are spectacular.

Cycle quiet roads and incredible paths

The Westfjord’s entire coastline – 960km (597 miles) of winding roads and steep mountain passes – is (for athletic types) a splendid cycling path. Every year some 100 cyclists complete the loop in just five days as part of the Westfjords Way Challenge. Many more independent travelers tour the Westfjords on bicycles for up to two weeks.

Perhaps the most rewarding leg of the Westfjords Way is the route between Arnarfjörður and Dýrafjörður via Svalvogar. The 49km (30-mile) circuit starts in the village of Þingeyri. The trip is strenuous but on reasonably even ground; experienced cyclists can do it in about six to eight hours. For a less-demanding outing, ride the first half to the orange Svalvogar lighthouse, then backtrack to Þingeyri. Rent fat bikes at the Simbahöllin coffeehouse.

Borea Adventures in Ísafjörður offers guided tours several times a week.

Get to know charming Ísafjörður

The hub of Westfjords adventure tours and by far the region’s largest town, Ísafjörður is set on an arcing spit that extends out into Skutulsfjörður. The town is hemmed in on all sides by towering peaks and the dark waters of the fjord, with a central grid of old timber- and tin-clad buildings, built when Ísafjörður was Iceland’s third-largest city (they’re on full display on residential street Tangagata).

The oldest houses are closer to the harbor. A few form part of the Westfjords Heritage Museum, which is crammed with fishing and nautical exhibits – tools from the whaling days, plus photographs of fish drying in the sun, tall ships and...more fish. 

Since Ísafjörður is Iceland’s third-busiest port of call for cruise ships, a surprising number of gift shops line central Aðalstræti. Knitwear studio Ívaf has wool garments with smart color combinations and classic textures. For traditional woolen sweaters and mittens, Karitas is a co-op store owned by local knitters.

Ísafjörður also boasts the region’s best collection of restaurants. An ambitious, rustic seafood spot, Tjöruhúsið has lively hosts and a serve-yourself buffet of hot skillets. Heimabyggð is a local favorite, with an excellent lunch menu, coffee and sourdough pizza. And at Húsið, you can sit at wooden tables inside or on the terrace for flavorful meals and local beer on tap.

Hike Hornstrandir, Iceland’s wildest coastal corner

On the northernmost tip of the Westfjords, Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is one of Europe’s last true wildernesses, packed with soaring mountains and precipitous cliffs. A small but steady number of travelers make the journey here, moving from one fjord to the next in fickle weather, taking anywhere from two nights to a week. The last full-time human resident of this truly rugged part of a rugged region moved away in 1952 – it never was an easy place to farm – though many descendants have turned family farmsteads into summer getaways. And the former doctor’s house at Hesteyri now serves coffee and cake.

To get to Hornstrandir, you must first head to the harbor, since there are no roads in; Borea and West Tours offer departures from Ísafjörður in the summer. Staffed by a lone ranger, Hornvík and Hesteyri are the two base camps, and most hikes have as their centerpiece the landmark Hornbjarg cliff. Day tours (five hours) from Ísafjörður to Hesteyri are available in July and August from West Tours; the Hornstrandir Visitor Center on Ísafjörður’s main square offers more information.

Learn about the “witches” of Hólmavík

A traditional town and service hub for the Strandir region of the Westfjords, Hólmavík has lately reinvented itself through its past association with mysticism. While many so-called occult practices were simply Viking traditions or superstitions, in the 17th century hidden grimoires (magic books) filled with puzzling runic designs were proof enough for local witch hunters (the area’s elite) to burn around 20 souls (largely poor ones) at the stake. Unlike in New England’s Salem trials, most of Iceland’s convicted “witches” were men. The Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft narrates this era and recreates its artifacts; don’t miss the detailed descriptions of the spells and the startling “necropants” (magic trousers). Finish off your lesson in the taproom of Galdur Brewery, where ales are said to be enhanced by runic spells. 

Embrace the beauty of Rauðisandur and the Látrabjarg bird cliffs

The steep and narrow drive to Rauðisandur is an experience in itself. From above, the red beach, colored by pulverized scallop shells, may not look red at all, as the sunshine often makes it seem yellow or even black. At sea level, the road reaches a junction: for a 1.5km (0.9-mile) walking path to the beach, turn right at the black wooden Saurbæjarkirkja. For drive-in access to the beach, turn left and head toward Melanes Camping. Beyond Saurbær, a small white house contains Franska Kaffihúsið (open from June to August; we recommend the French flan).

Head further on Rte 612 to the tip of the peninsula and one of Europe’s largest bird cliffs. Látrabjarg is the westernmost point of the European continent, and from June to mid-August, it's a fabulous place to watch puffins, razorbills, guillemots, cormorants and other seabirds. The cliffs stretch about 14km (8.7 miles) in total, with the longest walking trail of about 20km (12.4 miles) reaching Rauðisandur beach. Visit in the evening when the birds return to their nests.

On the way back, snap a photo of the washed-up hulk of the wrecked steel ship Garðar BA.

How much money do I need for the Westfjords?

Remote Iceland is notoriously expensive – and the Westfjords, one of the country’s most remote regions, is even more so. Prepare for a bit of sticker shock for meals and tours as you calculate those Icelandic króna conversions.

If you’re stretching your budget to get here, keep in mind that self-catering places (including Airbnbs) offer surprisingly good value.

• Night in a hut for two at Melanes Campsite: US$132 (via Airbnb)

• Admission to the Westfjords Heritage Museum: 1600kr (US$13.10)

• Tenderloin of farm-raised lamb at Café Riis in Hólmavík: 8900kr (US$73)

• Soak in the Drangsnes Hot Pots: by donation

• One-day kayaking excursion in Ísafjarðardjúp: 15,700kr (US$128)

Be ready for wild weather in the Westfjords

Whichever month you arrive in the Westfjords, you’ll need to be prepared for every kind of weather. Wintry conditions can strike without warning, even in midsummer. Wind- and rainproof gear, a pair of decent boots, and some warm layers will definitely come in handy – and before you set out on the road, it’s worth packing a spare tire and an extra can of gas, just in case. A road map and ferry timetables are also very useful: don’t rely on being able to get a decent cell signal on the Westfjords’ backroads.

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Scandinavia guidebook, published in July 2025.