A first-time guide to Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

Where I live, in Los Angeles, wine lovers are used to heading north for weekend escapes, whether to Santa Barbara, Sonoma or Napa Valley. Yet there’s some exceptional sipping to be had in the opposite direction, just south of the border – in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico’s most important wine region.

Just 90 miles south of San Diego in Baja California, Valle de Guadalupe produces over 80% of Mexico’s wine. Accordingly, the area is dotted with wineries offering tastings, tours and top-notch culinary offerings.

Even if you don’t know your sauvignon from your shiraz, vineyards make for particularly beautiful scenery, and the hotels here like to show it off. Which means any visitor can skip the wine altogether, and come for, say, sunset soaks in pools and hot tubs surrounded by vines. The best part: luxury stays here cost a fraction of comparable rooms in the most popular California wine-country destinations.

Here’s how to make your first trip to Valle de Guadalupe a memorable one. 

When should I go to Valle de Guadalupe?

August is the most exciting time to visit Valle de Guadalupe. The region’s Harvest Festival takes place during throughout the month, and you can expect special tastings, concerts and even a paella-making contest.

Spring and summer are great times for seeing lush landscapes and grapes on the vine, as well as for lounging by a pool. If you come in the winter, the vines will be bare – but the weather is still pleasant enough to sip wine outside. 

How much time should I spend in Valle de Guadalupe?

A long weekend is ideal. If you’re driving, come on Friday and leave on Monday to avoid increased traffic at the border on Saturdays and Sundays.   

Is it easy to get to and around Valle de Guadalupe?

The closest airport to Valle de Guadalupe is in Tijuana, reached by a two-hour drive that largely hugs the coast and has amazing views of the Pacific. If you fly into Tijuana, you can rent a car and drive the rest of the way; you can also drive across the border from San Diego. While both driving options are safe, stick to the main highway and try to drive during the day for added security.

Drivers should be aware that while heading to Valle de Guadalupe is easy, driving back to the US requires patience, with wait times at the border between one and three hours, depending on the day and time. To know what you’re in for, keep an eye on the US Customs and Border Patrol site to gauge wait times. If you have a Golden Entry Card and your car is registered with SENTRI, you can expect a quicker passage across the border. 

If you’re driving, we recommend downloading map data ahead of time, since the first few miles into Tijuana can be confusing, especially if roads are closed unexpectedly. From there, it’s a beautiful drive along the coast to the Valle de Guadalupe on brand-new highways – though the roads leading to the wineries themselves can be quite bumpy. 

Don’t feel comfortable driving? Most hotels can help you arrange a driver; if yours can’t, try Lomas Travel, through whom you can book a reliable driver online. It’s worth noting that Valle de Guadalupe is not very walkable and Uber generally isn’t available. So once you get here, having your own car is more budget-friendly than hiring a driver each time you want to head to a winery or restaurant. 

Top things to do in Valle de Guadalupe

Wine is the main attraction here – but sipping sauvignon blanc isn’t the only activity in town. 

Taste and tour in a wine wagon

Take the joy you felt as a kid bumping along in a wagon at a pumpkin patch – then add wine. That’s what’s in store on El Cielo Winery’s unique tractor-drawn tasting experience. You’ll get a guided wagon ride around the vineyard, a brief history of the region and three pit stops along the way to sample wine at the spots where the grapes are grown.

While they may not have wine wagons, other top spots for tastings include Bruma Vinícola, which stands out for its impressive design (the glass-enclosed underground wine cellar is built around a 300-year-old oak tree). Vena Cava is another good options, with tastings every hour from 11am until 5pm (book a reservation ahead online) and a pet- and kid-friendly food-truck area. And as its name implies, 3 Mujeres is run by three women winemakers who make magic (it’s open on Fridays and Saturdays or by appointment during the week).

Ride horses among the vines

Get a look at the region’s vines from a different vantage point: on horseback. Adobe Guadalupe Vineyards offers relaxing one-hour rides among lush landscapes on the property’s expertly trained Azteca sport horses.

Purify your senses with a transformative temazcal ritual

You can get massages and body scrubs at the spa at Banyan Tree Veya Valle de Guadalupe, sure. But how often do you get to hang with a temazcalero for a mind-body cleanse in a traditional sauna-like dome? Take advantage and experience deep-breathing exercises plus meditative chanting and drumming – and leave feeling totally refreshed.

Watch ocean water shoot 60ft (18m) into the air

Just 30 minutes away in nearby Ensenada, La Bufadora blowhole is a natural phenomenon that alone is worth the drive to the coast. The aquatic spectacle, courtesy of one of the largest marine geysers in the world, is caused by pressure from submerged sea caves. While you’re there, grab fish tacos or cheesy grilled clams (almejas gratinadas) and a souvenir from the vendor stalls that line the path to the blowhole.   

My favorite thing to do in Valle de Guadalupe

Grab a glass of nebbiolo – the region’s signature grape – and settle in for some epic stargazing. Because so much of the land here is covered in vineyards, there’s very little light pollution, making for a stunning tableau after dark. At my favorite hotel, El Cielo Resort, the ground-floor suites have firepits on their private patios, and room service will bring you a platter of s’mores-making ingredients (including strawberry marshmallows in addition to the traditional kind). I’m no sommelier, but toasted marshmallows and the cosmos above make a pretty dreamy pairing with Mexican wines. 

How much money do I need for Valle de Guadalupe?

In comparison with other rural Mexican locales, Valle de Guadalupe is on the steep side – for as in the US, wine regions command a premium for the privilege of sipping, eating and relaxing. Yet compared to such American wine regions as Napa and Santa Barbara, Valle de Guadalupe is relatively affordable.  

Here’s a breakdown of average costs:

• Hotel room: M$4000–8000 (US$200–400) per night

• Wine tasting: M$450 (US$22)

• Dinner for one: M$1500 (US$75)

• Fish taco: M$35 (US$2)

• Temezcal experience: M$6400 (US$315)

• Massage: M$4700 (US$230)

• Horseback riding: M$1800 (US$88)

• Driver to or from the border (one way): M$2000 (US$98)

• Daily car rental: M$500 (US$25)

Where should I stay in Valle de Guadalupe?

Luxuriate, focus on wellness or sleep in a bubble (seriously!). Valle offers a variety of accommodation styles. 

El Cielo Resort

If you want an all-in-one experience, El Cielo Resort is the place. The property has its own vineyard and winery with tours, plus multiple restaurants, a pool and even a falconry experience you can book. The rooms are large and with vineyard views; some have jetted tubs and (as mentioned above) personal outdoor firepits.

Banyan Tree Veya Valle de Guadalupe

Combine wellness and wine by staying at Banyan Tree Veya Valle de Guadalupe, which offers immersive programs based in mind-body holistic care. You can choose to focus on sleep, stress relief or a personalized blend of bodywork and mindfulness – or just book one of the 30 villas on property to enjoy a massage. It’s up to you to decide how much or how little you want to do.

Campera Hotel Burbuja

Pair Mexican bubbly with a night in an actual bubble. The rooms at Campera Hotel Burbuja are totally unique, sphere-shaped spaces with clear ceilings that allow you to stargaze while lying in bed. Since each bubble has an en-suite bathroom (the Bubble Supreme even has a private outdoor Jacuzzi), consider this a more glam form of glamping.  

Where should I eat in Valle de Guadalupe?

Come for the wine; stay for the seafood. Valle de Guadalupe’s proximity to the coast makes it paradise for anyone who loves a fresh catch. 

La Cocina de Doña Esthela

Blanca Esthela Martínez Bueno got her start making burritos for vineyard works – and now runs the area’s most popular restaurant, La Cocina de Doña Esthela. Breakfast is served all day, so stop in for corn hotcakes whenever you can.

Latitud 32

Michelin-recommended Latitud 32, on the property of El Cielo Winery, combines the flavors of Baja with those from the Yucatán, and offers a six-course tasting menu with wine pairings. Slathered in a black mole-like sauce, the octopus-and-shrimp ceviche can’t be missed.  

Fauna

Sustainability is the focus at Fauna, part of Bruma Wine Resort, with the menu featuring locally sourced ingredients, some grown right on the property. Fresh abalone served with aguachile and braised lamb are favorites here.

Animalón

A seasonal menu meets a stunning outdoor dining space under a centuries-old tree at Animalón. Though it’s closed in the winter, you can visit the rest of the year for clam cocktail, roasted bass and beer-braised barbacoa.