The mountains meeting the ocean in St Croix. Diana Penn/Shutterstock
This sounds dramatic, but I travel to very few places where the connection is so deep that I miss them before leaving. St Croix, the largest of the US Virgin Islands, is that for me. It feels like a married mixture of a resilient history, bright culture and pure natural beauty.
I mean, where else can you drive to the most beautiful sunrise at the easternmost point of the United States, where rugged beaches and striking cacti line the coast, and then head west into a lush rainforest with winding roads?
Or taste rich Crucian cuisine featuring fluffy johnnycakes, decadent stew chicken or my favorite dessert – Vienna cake. A layered cake so yummy, you're going to think about it your entire trip. And even though being underwater is not my forte, my friends who visit say it's one of their favorite islands to scuba dive on.
My favorite part is that it’s an island that kind of forces you to take it easy. It's a true challenge for someone like me, but you'll be surprised how easy it is to answer the call when the beaches look like that. Here's your guide to truly exploring it best.
When should I go to St Croix?
Funnily enough, the best time to visit the island is when it’s at its busiest. You cannot miss the Crucian Christmas Festival season. The parties are nonstop, with free concerts and events for locals and tourists (more on that later). If you’re planning to visit during this time, you’ll want to book your accommodations and car rental a few months in advance.
This busy season stretches from December through April, wrapping up with the spring breakers. If you’re looking for fewer crowds and still want sunny and clear weather, try visiting in May or November during the shoulder seasons.
Hurricane season runs from June through November, and while you’ll likely find much more affordable lodging and travel rates, it comes with the risk of heavy rain. These tropical rainfalls are usually brief, around 15 to 20 minutes, but stronger storms and hurricanes can disrupt plans, so keep an eye on the forecast.
How much time should I spend in St Croix?
Can St Croix be done in a long weekend? I'd say yes – just skip the full-day tours to places like Buck Island, and instead dedicate a day or two to soaking in beach time, and another day to some outdoor adventure, like a morning ATV ride through the rainforest or a hike to Jack and Isaac Bay Preserve.
Long weekends provide a small taste of the wanderlust island, but you must consider travel time. If you’re coming from the mainland US, for example, St Croix has a select number of nonstop flights from a few major cities such as Atlanta, Charlotte, Miami and Ft Lauderdale. Because of this, I think five to six days is the ideal minimum time to spend on the island. With two travel days, you have four days to jam-pack all the exploration (or relaxation) you want.
Add a few extra days if you’re planning to come for the Crucian Christmas Festival (trust me).
Is it easy to get in and around St Croix?
Since it's a US territory, US passport holders and residents can enter the island using their REAL ID or another acceptable form of identification. You will have to clear customs upon exiting the territory.
When flying into the island, you’ll likely land at Henry E. Rohlsen Airport (STX), a 25-minute drive from Christiansted and a 15-minute drive from Frederiksted. If you’re coming from St Thomas, you can hop over via a short ride in a seaplane or a ferry that runs a few times a week.
My rule in St Croix is simple: rent a car and remember to drive on the left-hand side. It takes some getting used to, but renting a car will give you the freedom to explore. Take extra precaution when driving at night, as roads can be windy and unmarked in more remote island areas.
There’s no Uber or Lyft, so taxis are still one of the primary transportation sources for tourists. However, taxis can be expensive and have limited operating hours, especially at night. Those looking for rideshares can try out the relatively new VI Hail, a locally owned and operated rideshare service.
If you’re not planning on renting a car, you should stay in one of the twin cities, Christiansted or Frederiksted. Both are quite walkable and offer easy access to restaurants, shops and excursions.
Top things to do in St Croix
Party it up at a Crucian event
Crucians love a good celebration, and the island’s calendar is packed with energetic festivals and events. The Crucian Christmas Festival (December to early January) stretches over several weeks with parades, food stalls and live music at The Village. Other popular events include Jump Up, a quarterly street party in Christiansted, an agricultural and food fair called Agrifest, and Mango Melee, a summer event devoted to all things mango. Time your visit with one of these events to experience an authentic and vibrant side of local culture.
Bask in unique tidal pools
The island’s rugged coastline reveals something beautiful: tidal pools ready for a dip. There’s Monk's Bath Beach, a supposedly man-made tidal pool with an interesting backstory (rumor has it that local monks carved it).
The largest tide pool on the island is the Annaly Bay Tide Pools, also known as Carambola Tidal Pools, which is a popular tourist hotspot. A word of warning: the two-hour round-trip moderate hike to the pools features a small section over slippery rocks, and the water in the pools can be tumultuous. I advise hiking with a knowledgeable guide or taking a 4x4 excursion to the pools with Tan Tan Jeep Tours.
Explore blue waters at Buck Island National Reef Monument
A tiny island off St Croix’s coast, Buck Island Reef National Monument boasts some of the clearest water and powdery white sand. This is an unmissable experience. Head out on a full-day tour with Big Beard's Adventure Tours, where you’ll take a catamaran over to the island and anchor at Turtle Beach. Take the time to float in salty water and explore the trail on the island before heading out to a final stop, where you’ll snorkel a mesmerizing underwater trail.
Kayak in a rare bioluminescent bay
There are a handful of places in the world where you can witness the magic of bioluminescence, and St Croix is one of them. St Croix’s experience is special because the waters are undisturbed, as all motorized boats are banned, making the bioluminescence even brighter and more stunning than you’ve ever seen.
I’ll be honest; the experience is a bit challenging. You’ll kayak three-quarters of a mile to Salt River Bay from the marina, sometimes against the current. But seeing the glowing light dance from beneath your kayak is the most glorious reward for a hard day’s paddle.
Try the spirits of the island
It would be a crime to visit the island of St Croix and not sip at least a few cocktails featuring Cruzan Rum. My Crucian husband swears it’s known for producing no hangovers. Tours of the Cruzan Rum distillery offer an inside look into the rum-making process and a bit of history about rum in St Croix.
But the spirits don’t stop there. Captain Morgan also has a distillery here you can tour, and for those looking for something truly otherworldly, head over to Sion Farm Distillery for a tour and tasting of Mutiny Island Vodka – a spirit made from breadfruit.
My favorite thing to do in St Croix
I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that I spend most of my days on the island eating. Here’s my perfect day of doing just that:
Start at Thomas Bakery for butter bread and cheese, bush tea and guava tarts. Lunch means heading to La Reine Chicken Shack for a BBQ chicken plate with a johnnycake and a side of potato stuffing, a savory-sweet concoction unlike anything you’ve had before. If I’m in a roti kind of mood, it’s a stop for chicken curry roti at 868 Roti Hut. Then, a quick swim and stop at Rhythms at Rainbow Beach for a Crucian Confusion cocktail – you’ll only need one. After the beach, grab a scoop of gooseberry ice cream from Armstrong's Homemade Ice Cream, a family-run shop that has been operating for over 100 years. End your night with dinner at Jubilee by Yaadie for some jerk chicken or lobster at Duggan’s Reef on the East End.
How much money do I need for St Croix?
Paradise can come with higher prices, and you’ll notice it most with food costs in St Croix. A quick trip to the grocery store reveals the elevated costs that Crucians and other Virgin Islanders face daily. However, buying groceries can still help you keep costs low, especially if you’re staying in vacation rentals. The best approach is to eat and buy as local as possible.
Most other travel costs are relatively comparable to prices in the mainland United States. Cards are accepted nearly everywhere, but it’s still good to have cash, especially for festival events.
Night in a hotel in Downtown Christiansted: from $200
BBQ Chicken Plate from La Reine Chicken Shack: $15
A scoop of gooseberry ice cream from Armstrong: $4
Cruzan Confusion cocktail on Rainbow Beach: $10.35
One-day car rental: from $50-100
Full-day tour to Buck Island: $135
Tour of Cruzan Rum Factory: $25
Dinner for two in Frederiksted: from $60
There are no private beaches in the USVI
You read that right: beaches in the US Virgin Islands are public until the shoreline, so soak up the sun as much as possible. My favorite beaches are Cane Bay Beach, Kramer’s Park, Rainbow Beach and Shoys Beach. If you’re visiting from September through April, stopping by Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge feels necessary. It’s a breathtaking area on the west side of the island. The beach is closed from April through mid-August as it’s a protected area for the gentle leatherback turtles who come to nest.
Don’t leave without a hook bracelet
An iconic hook bracelet is one of the best souvenirs you can pick up in St Croix. Sonya Hough designed the original, which has become a staple of Crucian culture. Stop by Sonya’s in downtown Christiansted to get fitted for your very own. A word of warning: If you’re in a relationship, you’ll want to wear the hook towards your heart. And for my single folks, wear the hook away from your heart to indicate you’re ready for love.
Greetings go far
Throughout the average day, you’ll hear locals say “morning,” “afternoon” and “good night.” St Croix is a polite island, and you’ll want to greet people accordingly, especially when walking into businesses or passing people on the sidewalk. Keep your ears open as well, as it’s a common courtesy, and expected to say the greeting back.