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Granite rock formations overlook the safari camp at Suján Jawai. Suján Jawai
Dawn breaks, the forest awakens. Leaves rustle around you, peacocks sound off in the distance, the earthy scent of the jungle mingles with the sweetness of wildflowers. A herd of deer grazes softly and langurs swing expertly through treetops. Whether or not you spot a big cat, being on a wildlife safari in India is a thrilling experience. From lush green jungles to dry deciduous forests to swampy marshlands, the diversity of India’s forests is unmatched, as is the sheer variety of wildlife within – lions, tigers, elephants, rhinos, leopards and sloth bears.
There are more than 100 national parks in India where you can go on a safari through the year (although many core zones are closed during the monsoon, usually June to September). Late summer (April to May) is the best time to visit if you want to spot the big cats. While the national parks are run by the government, there’s no dearth of privately-operated places to stay in and around them. From luxury tented en suites and treehouses to revamped hunting lodges and all-inclusive villas, there's plenty of choice.
Here’s our round-up of the best safari lodges and camps in India.
Best for quiet, understated luxury
Set on the fringes of Rajasthan’s premier national park, this intimate tented camp is a plush retreat in the wild. Eleven Mughal-inspired canvas tents with white pyramid roofs dot the property, each an apartment-sized haven with leather and mahogany furnishing, a king-size bed, a separate day-bed, freestanding bathtub, smart toilet and an outdoor patio and sundeck. Start your day with an exhilarating safari, followed by a hearty breakfast, and perhaps a dip in the stepwell-design pool or a relaxing Ayurvedic massage in the spa tent. A private "batman" (butler) is always at your service, whether you need an early wake-up call for your safari or an evening drink in your tent.
Best for a glamping experience
Spread over 30 acres, this is one of the most popular safari lodges located just a short distance from the Magadhi zone of Bandhavgarh National Park. 12 air-conditioned tents, each with a private bathroom, offer all the creature comforts and are beautifully appointed with wooden furnishing and four-poster beds. Local cooks who have been selected from nearby villages and trained by the resort dish up homely delicacies across Indian, Chinese, and Mughlai cuisines. While safaris in the national park offer many chances of spotting tigers, you may be lucky enough to have a closer encounter at the perennial water hole on the property’s perimeter.
Best for private safaris
Less than a 30-minute drive (18km/11 miles) from Udaipur airport, this 250-year-old hunting lodge overlooks an artificial lake in a private forest that has been rewilded over the past three decades, attracting leopards, myriad birds and other animals. While the historic lodge is now converted into an expansive two-bedroom villa (with a private pool), a newly-constructed structure across the lake has eight spacious suites with elegant furnishings, high-quality amenities, private balconies, and a common infinity pool. Morning and evening safaris are organized where you can possibly spot the elusive leopards or hop aboard a luxury barge for a lake cruise with a side of bird-watching. Feast on a mix of Mewar and Rajasthani food as well as international favorites; the chefs can even rustle up a shikar (hunting) meal – a dish eaten by hunting parties of the past, with quail or goat cooked in an underground pit – if you wish.
Best for tented luxury
Perched on the banks of the forested Banjaar River, Banjaar Tola, a Taj Safari is divided into two elegant camps of nine tents each, both with their own dining room and bar, terraced lounge and pool. Gond artwork and Bastar bell metalwork that highlight local culture can be seen all around the property. Under a tall, green roof, each tent sports pressed bamboo wall panels, locally crafted furniture, block-printed Madhya Pradesh cotton and silk upholstery, a freestanding bathtub and wide glass doors that open onto a private deck. Head out on safaris accompanied by expert guides, get pampered by a dedicated butler, and savor light Indian fusion cuisine that uses produce largely sourced from the lodge’s organic garden.
Best for local design and architecture
This charming rustic retreat channels the local Mishing style of architecture – each of the 12 cottages is raised on stilts and is topped with a thatched roof. Inside, natural materials like bamboo, cane and wood abound. Enjoy the luxury of space as well as a wrap-around verandah that overlooks either the Diphlu River or the verdant paddy fields around. Apart from safaris in the nearby Kaziranga National Park where you can spot the one-horned rhino, the property also offers Brahmaputra river cruises on a specially designed country boat – you might be lucky enough to see endangered Ganges dolphins. In the evening, watch a lively Assamese dance performance followed by a sumptuous barbecue dinner by a bonfire.
Best for tribal immersion
Inspired by the hadis or villages of the local Kadu Kuruba tribe, this picturesque lodge offers a beautiful blend of traditional craft and modern luxury. Choose between the thatch-roofed safari hut with a plunge pool or the more expansive pool hut with a large courtyard and pool. Or splurge on the pool reserve hut, which comes with lavish living areas, a temperature-controlled pool and an outdoor star bed that’s perfect for stargazing. Apart from 4WD safaris in Nagarhole National Park, the resort offers boat rides on the Kabini River, either in a regular boat or on a coracle (traditional keel-less round boat). You can also get a peek into the unique culture and lifestyle of the Jenu Kuruba through a guided visit to a nearby settlement – accompanied by a cup of jaggery kaapi (coffee) seasoned with ginger and pepper.
Best for exceptional wilderness experiences
Set against a dramatic backdrop of granite rock formations, this intimate Relais & Châteaux camp is one of the best places in India to spot leopards in the wild. The 10 tented suites are spacious and come with private sit-outs and en suite bathrooms that include a bathtub and marble shower; a few of the tents have two bedrooms, a private heated swimming pool as well as a private safari 4WD and butler. Take your pick from several thrilling ways to encounter wildlife, including wilderness drives amidst the boulder-strewn landscape and horseback-riding. For a more close-to-nature experience, sign up for a guided walking safari with local Rabari tribespeople. The Rabari are a pastoral nomadic tribe of camel, goat and sheep herders who have walked these lands for centuries; you will set out on foot with an expert guide as you track animals, explore the indigenous plants and take in the mesmerizing landscape. Later, relax in the pool or indulge in a spa treatment, followed by an al fresco dinner in a secluded location on the property.
Best for vintage chic
Established in 1936 during the British Raj, Jim Corbett National Park is India’s first national park, and Jim’s Jungle Retreat pays homage to this legacy. Its 18 jungle cottages and bungalow-style lodges sport a mix of colonial design and the architectural style of the local pastoral Van Gujjar tribe. For the complete forest experience, book the jungle lodge, which is perched at a 4.5m (15ft) elevation and offers stunning views of the surrounding wilderness and the nearby Shivalik hills. Try varied cuisines, ranging from the mountain food of Kumaon to nawab delicacies of Rampur to Raj-era inspired fare; the resort also organizes bush dinners in surprise locations around the property.
Best for contemporary design
Gir National Park in Gujarat is the last remaining home of Asiatic lions in India, and with a population of more than 650 lions, sighting is all but guaranteed. Located 39km (24 miles) from the park, The Postcard Gir is set amidst 16 acres of mango orchards with 15 haveli-style (traditional, ornately decorated) guest rooms that offer verdant views and utmost privacy. Bathed in light, these high-ceiling rooms are done up in neutral tones and modernist decor with antique brass embellishments. Apart from daily safaris in the national park, enjoy activities such as naturalist-led morning trails, crocodile spotting in the Hiran river, picnics at secret spots, a Dhamal dance performance by the Siddhi community of African descent, and even a day trip to nearby Diu known for its medieval forts and pristine beaches.
Best for a taste of The Jungle Book
If the child in you is still fascinated by treehouses, then Pench Tree Lodge is where you want to be. Nestled in 40 acres of forested area, this eco-lodge offers six charming tree houses perched 5.4m (18ft) above the ground atop mahua trees. Made of local sal tree, these spacious suites feature wildlife art, a four-poster bed, en suite bathroom and large French windows that open onto a private deck with a bay window lounger. If you’re traveling with family, book one of the 10 luxury cottages that come with two bedrooms. Head out on safaris, nature trails and even a cycling plus camping excursion in the park’s buffer zone. For photography enthusiasts, the underground Kipling Photography Hide lets you get close to wildlife safely and discreetly.
Best for destination dining
The relatively unexplored Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary in eastern Maharashtra has seen a resurgence of its tiger population, making it an attractive safari destination. On its periphery, the 34-acre eco-luxe resort Tipai – Wildlife Luxuries offers 11 forest villas and four pool residences designed in an earthy, rustic style, featuring spacious living areas and open bathrooms. Food is very much in focus here with four on-site dining spaces, including two specialty ones helmed by Chef Amninder Sandhu (who runs successful restaurants in Mumbai and Goa). Of these, Talaabwali serves kebabs and biryanis in a thali (large sharing platter), while Palaash offers a multi-course degustation menu with modern interpretations of traditional local dishes. While the menu varies, you can expect delicacies like slow-cooked raan (leg of lamb/goat) in a bhakri (millet flatbread) taco and bamboo-smoked lamb or jackfruit curry with locally grown Indrayani rice. End your meal on a sweet note with a mahua kala jamun or fried milk solids balls soaked in sugar syrup that’s laced with extract of mahua, an indigenous flower that’s often fermented to produce alcohol.
Best for an eco-friendly sojourn
Spread over 12 acres in the buffer zone of Tadoba National Park, Waghoba Eco Lodge combines sustainability with conscious luxury. Its 14 rustic cottages are built with sun-baked adobe bricks with sandstone cladding, the arched roofs are made of upcycled broken mosaic, and the vault ceilings are made of earthen cylinders to minimize electricity consumption. Each one-bedroom cottage comes with a daybed, a private sit-out and double vanities in the bathroom. Head out on safaris and nature trails, try bird-watching and photography through the on-site lake-facing hide, and go cycling in the countryside. The kitchen dishes out everything from regional Maharashtrian thalis to international fare.
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