New Orleans in five days: jazz, swamp tours and top-notch food

New Orleans draws visitors for many different reasons. Maybe you are coming to enjoy the music scene and stay out all night on Bourbon Street, or perhaps you'd rather marvel at the architecture and learn the city's history. If you're like me, you're there for the food. 

When I began planning this birthday trip for my boyfriend, Dylan, I knew the one thing that we wanted to do: eat. Yes, we wanted to see the sights and get to know this beloved city, but our main priority was diving headfirst into the culinary adventure of New Orleans. 

I spent countless hours building this itinerary. And, given that we prioritized restaurants requiring reservations, each day's plan also required some forethought. 

This was our first time in New Orleans, so seeing the main attractions was definitely important to us. This trip felt like the perfect introduction to the city; in fact, I already want to go back. From the dreamy Garden District with its expansive mansions to the mesmerizing swamp just beyond the city and the dimly lit jazz bars, it was a truly unforgettable adventure. And yet, there is still so much I want to explore. 

Whether you are coming to NOLA for the Superbowl, Mardi Gras, or just to enjoy the city, use this itinerary as a guide. 

• When to arrive: Weekends are ideal if you are looking to enjoy the nightlife, but weekdays still have this on a less intense level. We arrived on a Sunday and stayed during the week. Plan accordingly if you are in town early in the week, as Mondays and Tuesdays are popular days for restaurants and attractions to be closed. 

• How to get from the airport: Unless you're renting a car, a rideshare service such as Uber or Lyft is the best option. 

• Where to stay: During our visit, we stayed at the Columns. This may be one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed in. Nestled in the Garden District, this mansion-turned-boutique hotel is a worth-it splurge. We split our time between the Columns and Hotel Henrietta, which was spacious and lovely and had a more modern approach to the New Orleans vibe. I loved drinking coffee on our balcony each morning, watching the tram roll by. Try Olivier House Hotel for a more budget-friendly option that still holds onto the New Orleans charm.  

• Getting around: Both hotels we booked are located along the St Charles Streetcar line on St Charles St. It proved an inexpensive and handy way to get to the French Quarter and beyond. Access the tram by downloading the Le Pass app, where you can purchase your ticket. Cycling, ferries and car rentals are also worthy options.

• What to pack: New Orleans weather can vary greatly, so make sure to check the weather ahead of time. During our visit we got caught in the rain a few times, but boy, was it hot. For the heat wear shorts and short sleeves, but always bring some nicer clothes if you plan to eat at one of New Orleans' signature white tablecloth restaurants. Certain dining options have a dress code, so be mindful. 

Day 1: Southern art and comfort food

Morning: We landed early Sunday morning and headed straight to Hotel Henrietta, who was hosting us for our first two nights. Our room wasn't ready, but we were able to freshen up in the restroom and enjoy a coffee in the chic yet cozy lobby before heading off to our first adventure. 

How to spend the day:  I will admit that coming from New York City, public transportation in New Orleans leaves something to be desired. Ultimately, we relied on rideshare a lot, but whenever accessible, we hopped on the tram. In this case, we boarded the St Charles tram and rode toward the Warehouse District. We stopped at Conchon Butcher for a quick bite (they have a sit-down restaurant next door, but we wanted a more casual and quick meal), and blissfully enjoyed a set of perfectly seasoned ribs, creamy mac and cheese, and roasted brussel sprouts. Hello, NOLA!

After lunch, we went to the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, which houses the largest collection of Southern art and showcases a wide range of artists across mediums. I especially loved the Baldwin Lee photography exhibit. 

If you prefer history to art, the National WWII Museum is next door and is considered the best in the country. Warning: it takes hours to days to fully explore.

We got a call that our room was ready, and headed back to the hotel to rest, unwind and recover. After a couple of hours, it was time for dinner, but first, Hotel Henrietta gives each guest a free drink at the hotel bar. Our bartender, Jay, was so welcoming. He told us about his band Loose Ones and even played us a private concert on his harmonica. It was a great kick-off to our evening. 

Dinner: For dinner, we went to Mosquito Supper Club, a Cajun restaurant run out of a small house in the Garden District. They have a prix-fixe menu, and while we didn’t have a reservation, we went very early (5:30pm) to try our luck at getting an à la carte table. Voilà; It worked! 

We enjoyed smothering toasted bread in whipped butter and homemade jam, smokey gumbo and BBQ prawns. While the meal was delicious, and it was the one I was most looking forward to, I came away feeling it was a tad overhyped. 

Pro tip: If you're visiting early in the week, most New Orleans restaurants are closed one or two days mid-week. Plan accordingly; we mapped out our schedule around the restaurants we were most excited about. 

After dark: While we had an early night on our first day, NOLA is known for its nightlife. Check to see if there are any shows at Tipitina’s. This iconic local haunt has great vibes and a range of artists, from local talent to big stars. 

Day 2: Oysters, jazz and Bourbon Street

Morning: On our way to breakfast, we took our time exploring the Garden District. As you walk the tree-lined streets, you'll come across stunning mansions and a quiet atmosphere. It was a beautiful start to the day. 

For breakfast, we dined at Atchafalaya, which, once again, was fantastic (you will see over the course of this itinerary that I didn’t eat one bad meal). We enjoyed fried green tomatoes, Dylan had a deviled egg, and we split a special of red beans with beef, rice and popcorn chicken. I also had one of their famous Bloody Marys, and Dylan had a Pimm's Cup (a gin cocktail infused with herbs, fruit and spices). We found the service impeccable, and their weekend brunch has live jazz. If you want a more casual breakfast option, Molly’s Rise and Shine on Magazine Street is a great option.

How to spend your day: After we walked over to Magazine Street, popping in and out of the shops and vintage stores there, before grabbing an Uber to Mardi Gras World. This giant warehouse near the Mississippi River is home to hundreds of Mardi Gras floats. Pay for a tour, and get a lesson in the history of Mardi Gras, a chance to sample King’s Cake and explore the warehouse. It's a behind-the-scenes look at what goes into this iconic festival and provides a new appreciation for the celebration. 

Dinner: We began the night with a hosted dinner at Fives. Located in Jackson Square, this raw bar has to be one of the best dining experiences I have ever had. Not only is the staff so fun and knowledgable, I got over my fear of oysters here and we enjoyed the best lobster roll either of us has ever tried(a high reward coming from Dylan, who grew up on North East beaches). Plus, a little gem salad with crispy breadcrumbs and a refreshing shrimp cocktail sealed the deal. We wrapped up the meal with a crème brulée and to-go cups of Hurricanes, New Orleans's signature cocktail of rum, lemon juice and passionfruit syrup.

How to spend the evening: After dinner, we took a walk exploring Jackson Square, where we ran into Jay, our bartender from the night before, playing with his bandmate. We killed some time at the Mississippi Riverfront enjoying the breeze, sipping on our hurricanes and the sunset, before heading into the belly of the French Quarter to Preservation Hall. This iconic jazz club is a staple and was recommended to me by nearly everyone.  We got tickets to see their brass band play. Tables surround the stage, and through the course of the hour-long set, the energy was palpable: each musician was wildly talented, and you could feel how much fun they had on stage together. 

After Dark: Following the show, we spent the rest of the evening hopping around Bourbon Street, stopping at the bars that caught our eye and munching on beignets from Cafe Beignet. Wanting more jazz, we made our way to Frenchman St, where we wandered through the art market and watched some live jazz at the Royal Frenchman Hotel. Officially exhausted, we got an Uber home. 

Day 3: Death, life and muffuletta

Morning: We were off to a slow start this morning as I was feeling the effects of Bourbon St. We began by making our way over to the Columns, which was hosting us for the rest of our time in the city. The minute we stepped inside this hotel, the ambiance was wonderful; I immediately perked up. We dropped our bags and sipped some coffee on the porch before heading out to the French Quarter. 

How to spend your day: Ditching our original brunch plans at Brennan’s, we headed to The Museum of Death. Lovers of serial killers, dark history and gore won't want to miss it. While some of the content is very graphic, the museum is incredibly interesting, offering a deep dive into the history of John Wayne Gacy, 9/11, 1800s funeral rituals and more. We spent about an hour here taking it all in. 

After spending our morning immersed in death, it was time to remember a reason to live, so we walked to Napolean House for some of their famous muffuletta. This muffuletta is so good that it can cure nearly anything, including me. It was like the damage of last night had never happened. We also enjoyed some potato salad, beans and rice. It was one of my favorite meals. 

Afterward, we went to the Sazerac House, a New Orleans distillery that has been around since the 1850s and is considered the drink of the city. At Sazerac House, you can take a free tour, learn about the company's history and sample some of its liquor. The tour is more of a museum rather than a deep dive into the distillery, so if you are looking for a more in-depth look at the process, I would skip it. 

Dinner: We spent the rest of our day enjoying our dreamy room at the Columns. We lounged in our room before indulging in a fantastic dinner on the porch. We had a very early morning the next day, so this was the perfect situation for rest, relaxation and good food right at home. 

We split the burger with bacon marmalade, the little gem salad (I still think about the parmesan dressing), a blistered half chicken and fries. Dining on the big porch in the laid-back atmosphere and enjoying the warm evening felt like such a wonderful end to our day. I sipped a martini and reveled in our cozy night in. 

Day 4: Swamps, parks and alligator cheesecake

Morning: We were up and at it at around 6:30am for our swamp tour. For my Dylan's birthday, the main activity he wanted to do was take an airboat through the swamp and see alligators, so, of course, I made it happen. 

Through Louisiana Tour Company (I used credit card points for this), we were picked up and driven out to the Barataria, where we spent the morning cruising the winding waterways while spotting countless alligators swimming along the surface. This experience was a highlight of the trip. The landscape was so stunning and untouched. With its Spanish moss and stillness, you'd never know it is riddled with alligators. 

How to spend your day: After our tour, we headed back to the city and grabbed lunch at Luizza’s by The Track. We split two po-boys, one of which was the BBQ Shrimp, which they're famous for. I loved it, but the real star for me was the Breathtaking Beef. The zing of the horseradish packs a punch that I'm still thinking about.

After Luizza’s, we walked toward City Park and stopped at St Louis Cemetary No. 3 along the way. If you want to visit a cemetery in the city, this is a great option, given that the famous Lafayette Cemetery is currently closed. It has the iconic tombs everyone wants to see.

At City Park, we explored the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden. This secluded portion of the extensive park is full of weaving pathways, a beautiful pond, Spanish moss and tons of sculptures by various artists. This was a really great, free experience, but the sun was starting to beat down on us, and both of us were getting a tad sunburnt. Full and hot, we called it. 

We decided, per usual, to have a rest hour before our evening festivities. It was our last night, and we wanted to make the most of it!

Dinner: We took the tram to Oak St in the Leonidas neighborhood for dinner at Jacques-Imo's. While we waited for a table, we had a pre-dinner drink at Old Alker Distillery. This local distillery has a no frills approach and makes its spirits in-house. Dylan and I had a lot of fun sampling the varieties that they had. 

Jacques-Imo's ended up being such a phenomenal meal, serving up inventive twists on the regional classics, amid a bustling dining room. We had fried chicken, gumbo (that had potato salad in it), alligator cheesecake, beans and rice, and mac and cheese. The alligator cheesecake changed my life. Don’t be afraid; it is a spicy, savory, cheese-filled masterpiece. 

After Dark: We went next door and got tickets for a live jazz band at The Maple Leaf. This had a dive bar feel and was surprisingly packed for a Wednesday night, but it helps that the band was great. We hung out there for a while, siping coronas and enjoying the evening before grabbing the tram back to our hotel. It was a perfect last night. 

Day 5: Audubon Park

Morning: We had a flight at 5pm that evening, but many hours to kill until then. We slept in and checked out of our hotel room before heading over to Clancy’s for lunch. I will say, everyone says their fried chicken is the best, but sadly it wasn’t on the menu this particular afternoon. We had more gumbo (couldn’t help ourselves), fried eggplant spears and a duck ragu. It was lovely and flavorful last meal in the city. 

After lunch, we walked through Audubon Park, where we watched the countless ducks and marveled at the mansions lining the park's exterior. Afterward, we both were feeling pretty exhausted, so we went back to the hotel and enjoyed a Pimms cup in the hotel bar before making our way to the airport. 

In the Uber to the airport, we reflected on the week with so much joy. We came, saw and ate just as we had intended. It was the perfect introduction to New Orleans.