3 days in Sint Maarten: buggy rides, floating bars and island hopping

Nestled in a row of islands in the Caribbean Sea, the half-Dutch, half-French island of Sint Maarten and St-Martin is home to countless iguanas, lush green scenery and miles of beaches along turquoise waters.

When you arrive on the island, you will find the Dutch and French sides have two distinct personalities divided by an invisible line. While the Dutch side is home to a thumping nightlife, glimmering casinos and a flurry of restaurants, the French side has a quieter and more laid-back atmosphere where a slowcation truly flourishes. Luckily, it is easy to experience both, as well as neighboring Anguilla, on a short visit. I recently stayed on the Dutch side of the island, hopping back and forth between the territories, eating wonderful meals and swimming the days away – here is my guide to a three-day adventure.

• When to arrive: Arriving on a Thursday or Friday guarantees you will be able to take part in the nightlife on the Dutch side while still having time to explore the whole island throughout the weekend.

• How to get from the airport: The main airport is Princess Juliana International Airport on the Dutch side. The island is relatively small, and taxis are a great way to get around. Certified taxis will have a "T" on their license plates. This is a surefire way to know you are getting a ride from a verified taxi service. 

• Getting around town: While there is no Uber or Lyft in Sint Maarten, the SXM Taxi App allows you to call a car when you need to get somewhere. 

• Where to stay: For an all-inclusive, family-friendly option, try Sonesta Maho Point, but if you're an adults-only group, the Sonesta Ocean Point is a quieter choice. For a secluded, design-forward stay, try Le Martin Boutique Hotel on the French side. 

• What to pack: A swimsuit, sunscreen and a hat are always necessary when enjoying the beaches.

Advertisement

Day 1

Buggy rides and Carnival history

Morning: Grab breakfast to go before heading out into the warm sun of Sint Maarten. Feel the breeze in your hair while getting to know the destination with a buggy ride around the island. The open-air, four-seat style cars make navigating the island easy and require a valid license. Due to its small size (19km/12-mile circumference), you can make the entire loop and see both the French and Dutch sides in a couple of hours.

There are neighborhoods dotted around the island broken up by undisturbed wildlife. As you explore, you will find many worth stopping in. My personal favorite was Grand Case for its blend of European energy and beachy vibes. Many companies offer guides to help you stay on track and take you to the essential sights. As you drive along Oyster Pond Rd, you will come across iguanas basking in the sun while visitors marvel at their bright colors and offer lettuce; this is the perfect first stop.

As you continue the ride, look to the towering green hills on your left, like Pic du Paradis and Flagstaff, and the bright blue water of Saint-Barthélemy Channel on your right.

Stop at Pirate Hideout Beach Bar and Restaurant on Orient Beach for a refreshment and to watch the kitesurfers out on the water. This is an excellent place for water activities due to the strong breeze and mid-sized waves. If you're inclined to bare all, there's also a nude section at this beach.

Back in the buggy, continue on to the Marigot Market. Open Monday to Saturday, you could spend hours exploring this bustling collection of vendors. From fresh fruit, vegetables and seafood to locally made jewelry and clothing, it is easy to walk away with a few goodies to take home with you.

Afternoon: After the buggy ride, grab a meal (I had the grilled chicken panini) along the water at Tortuga Maho on the Dutch side. Sint Maarten is famous for its heart-racing plane landings, which come in low over Maho Beach before gracefully landing a few hundred feet along the runway. Here you can watch the incredible landings with a meal without the plane-spotting crowds that gather along the beach. 

Advertisement

After lunch, walk over to the We Culture Museum. This one is for lovers of Carnival and those looking to understand the history behind the beloved annual celebration. In Sint Maarten, Carnival is in February on the Dutch side and April on the French. Over the course of weeks, parades run through the island, and locals and visitors put together colorful adventurous outfits and take to the streets to celebrate. Originally Carnival was a celebration in the lead-up to Ash Wednesday, but now it is not always tied to those dates, allowing the different islands to celebrate outside a time constraint.

We Culture Museum was founded by Gerald Hart – a lifelong attendee of Carnival who was born into a family of major figures in the Trinidad Carnival scene – whose primary goal is to preserve the history of the Caribbean Carnival. At the end of your tour, you will have the chance to try on one of the iconic headdresses and wings. 

Evening: For dinner, visit the elegant and delicious Emilio’s, located in the Dutch Cul de Sac on the Dutch side of the island. When you’re in Sint Maarten, don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy some Creole curry, specifically Poulet de Colombo, which is a local staple. The dish features potatoes, chicken, carrots and an array of spices. It can be found around every corner, and it is generally fantastic – Emilio's is no exception. It also serves a fantastic short rib that I still think about. 

Day 2

Local recipes and smoky BBQ

Morning: When I am this close to a body of water, I like to start my day by swimming in the ocean, but it’s also the perfect time to explore around your nearby neighborhood, which for me was Maho Reef, or enjoy breakfast on your balcony. Either way, start off slowly – it is the perfect way to savor the pace of Sint Maarten.

Spend your morning in the kitchen at Creole Culinary Classroom, where you can learn the art of cooking some of the island’s regional favorites. During my visit, I had a two-hour lesson, during which I learned to make fish fritters and rhum baba, a raised cake soaked in rum. The classroom teaches a range of menus in various languages, but everyone will learn recipes to recreate time and time again. 

Afternoon: Enjoy your afternoon at Balaou, a floating restaurant off the coast of the French side of the island. With mountains in the distance and the shore filled with visitors having lunch at the beach bars, the little floating barge feels separate from the rest of the world. Balaou will send a dingy to pick you up from a nearby dock before driving you to a floating platform, home to a full-service bar and classic food options, like burgers and nachos. Take a moment to get your sea legs. The best time to be out at the Balaou is on a calmer day, but a gentle rocking should always be expected. The hardest part is getting from the moving boat to the moving platform, so if you struggle for balance or motion sickness, this one isn't for you!

The bar has various floating devices tied to it. You’ll find blown-up couches, walkways and covered floating seating (for those who prefer to stay out of the sun). You can try to walk out to the seats and have your feet in the water, but I prefer swimming out to the floaties. 

Spend the remaining daylight hours hopping from floaty to floaty at Balaou, cooling off in the temperate water, and getting your tan on. This was one of my favorite activities from the trip, and like nothing I had ever done before.

Evening: After your day on the water, stop at Captain D's Rib Shack for a casual yet fabulous barbecue. Obviously, the ribs are a must, but the jerk chicken also packs a delicious punch. If you are up for it, get a sample of a local favorite, guavaberry. Often found fused in rums, guavaberry cocktails are a staple. 

After dark: The Dutch side of Sint Maarten has an abundance of bars and nightlife options, but Nowhere Special, just a short distance from Captain D’s, is the perfect after-dinner. This outdoor bar is loved for its affordable drinks and packed dance floor. 

Day 3 

Island hopping

Morning: Take a 30-minute boat ride to the stunning island of Anguilla. There are options to charter your own boat, which you could use to sail around the island, or you can take the ferry and spend your time exploring the island itself. 

Afternoon: Anguilla is dotted with pristine beaches to spend your afternoon on. Shoal Bay Beach and Crocus Bay Beach are among Anguilla’s best beaches. Combine your lunch with beachfront views at Leon’s at Meads Bay, serving a Caribbean-Asian fusion of fresh ceviche, sushi and boa buns, just steps away from the clear water. Make the most of the boating and snorkeling opportunities just offshore, or book a sunset cruise with Calypso.

For most visitors, a trip to the famous Anguilla Arch – a picture-perfect natural stone archway in the cliffside – is a must. You can drive to a view of the arch (and stand on top of it), or if you would rather see it from the water, opt for a boat tour around the island. 

Evening: If you’re only planning on a day trip to Anguilla, the last ferry to Sint Maarten leaves at 4:30pm. However, if you want to stay overnight, grab dinner at Veya for grilled octopus and lobster bisque. Quintessence is a stunning accommodation worthy of a splurge, or opt for the Four Seasons Anguilla, another island favorite.

After dark: Spend the evening at Bankie Banx's Dune Preserve. Get to know the locals while dancing the night away to Anguilla legend, Bankie Banx’s DJ set, right on the beach. 

Chamidae traveled to Sint Maarten by invitation of the SXM Tourism Board.