This innovative and hugely atmospheric hotel is as much a museum as a mere place to rest your head. Housed in a painstakingly restored 17th-century mansion that once belonged to a famous Shkodran writer, the Tradita heaves with Albanian arts and crafts and has traditional yet very comfortable rooms with terracotta-roofed bathrooms and locally woven bed linen.
A homemade, homegrown breakfast awaits guests in the garden each morning, while the restaurant serves excellent fish dishes. Try to avoid the small and charmless newer rooms in the back block, though – the older ones are much better.