Claiming the crown for the hotel with the best view in town, the Kalemi has big, bright rooms with balconies and large windows from which to admire the vistas over the Drina Valley. When you finally bore of the view, chill out in the garden where tortoises plod and grapes dangle from vines.
Breakfast (juice, tea, a boiled egg and fresh bread with fig jam) is an all-local affair.