In the pretty village-like cobbled streets of the kalaja (fortress), Onufri is the closest you'll get to a homestyle Albanian feast without actually gatecrashing a family lunch. Expect to be brought a heaving plate of stuffed peppers, byrek (stuffed savoury pastries), qofta (rissoles), stuffed aubergines and grilled chicken. Finish up with a slice of homemade honey cake and you've got a meal to remember.
Although there is an à la carte menu, the best option is to go for the mixed plates, which are for a minimum of two people.